How to get rid of white flies in the greenhouse. Proven ways
Today, every second gardener has a greenhouse on his plot, which allows you to harvest vegetables earlier and protect plants from the changing weather conditions in the field. But plants are not the only ones who like the humid and warm microclimate of a greenhouse. Such pleasant conditions turn out to be very attractive for the white fly, which in a short time can destroy the entire crop.
The greenhouse is a popular habitat for the white fly
Description of the pest
The adult white fly (aleyrodidae) looks like a snow-white miniature butterfly – the body length does not exceed 2 mm. But at first glance, this delicate creature can be compared to a strong pump, as the insect actively sucks the sap from the leaves of plants (cucumber, tomato, cabbage and many other crops). They stop developing, refuse to bloom normally and bear fruit, and when the pest dominates, they often die.
The tiny whitefly butterfly is unusually voracious.
The white fly feels great in the greenhouse. A windless, warm microclimate (this heat-loving insect dies when the temperature drops below +10 °C), high humidity and plenty of succulent foliage are the best means to promote its active reproduction. Female lays up to 130 eggs in 30 days of life, which she spends tirelessly absorbing plant sap. After 20-40 days after passing the larval stage, a new army of butterflies is ready for battle.
Larvae feed, like “mothers”, on plant sap and are practically invisible to the naked eye – their body length is only 0.3-0.9 mm. Adding to the inconvenience of recognizing this tiny enemy is its cryptic lifestyle – insects usually strongly recommend themselves on the inner surface of leaf laminae.
Butterflies and whitefly larvae nest on the inside of leaves.
The first signs of infestation by the pest are slow development of plants, their oppressed appearance, brittle shoots and yellow spots on deformed leaves. A characteristic feature of whitefly activity is a sticky coating on the leaves of vegetables, which in turn becomes a cheap medium for the reproduction of fungal disease spores.
If you find such sad and “sticky” plants in your greenhouse, and if a swarm of small white moths flit fearfully to neighboring bushes when shaken, immediately begin the defense. In this case, delay can lead to the most dire consequences. In a short time, the tiny “pumps” will multiply to an incredible number and destroy the entire crop.
the mechanical method
Gardeners who do not want to “poison” plants with chemicals, prefer to fight the whitefly by hand. To do this, adult butterflies are knocked off the plants with a jet of water, and then washed, armed with a soapy solution and a sponge, larvae, eggs and sticky covers of insects from the leaves (especially from them). Soap solution is prepared from 100 g of shavings of laundry soap (even better tar soap) and 600 ml of warm water.
The plants are watered with water from a hose or a watering can, and then the leaves are washed with soapy water.
If you have free time and, most importantly, the desire to quickly help your green pets, feel free to proceed with these tedious works – this method really works.
The biological method
In a short time it is possible to survive whitefly from the greenhouse with the help of Encarsia formosa parasitic water, whose females lay eggs inside the pest larvae, which leads to their rapid death. This natural method of fighting whiteflies is widespread on farms and is quite accessible to ordinary gardeners – tubes and cartons of Encarsia can be bought in special stores or ordered online. An army of encarsia can be purchased at a specialty store. Photo from biobestgroup.com
For each greenhouse area of 1m2 you need only one Novosel driver, which quickly detects and destroys the enemy. If you completely destroy the whiteflower, the parasites, deprived of food, will also die.
Some clever gardeners save the greenhouse from whiteflies by using fobens designed to control mosquitoes and flies. To do this, an extension cord is pulled into the room and a fumigator with a repellent liquid or plate is plugged into the outlet.
The device has a devastating effect on mosquitoes and whiteflies
The device is left active, having previously closed all windows and tightly closed the door of the greenhouse. In a few hours the pests are dead. In an unequal struggle with the “fragrant” fumigator, many other insects, including useful ones, also lay their heads.
The number of pests can be significantly reduced by using glue traps. Preference should be given to yellow traps – moths are attracted to this color. Such devices can be purchased at a gardening store or you can make them yourself.
For this purpose, they take pieces of plywood (or any other material at hand), cover them with yellow paint, and after drying, apply to them something that will stick to the surface kerosene, solidol, honey with rodents or glue. Above the greenhouse beds, U-shaped supports are built or cross-shaped shapes are attached to the roof. Traps are attached to them with twine, placing them at plant crown level.
Yellow sticky traps have proven to be excellent at controlling whiteflies.
As the green pets grow, the twine is stretched, purchased traps are replaced with new ones after “filling”, and the self-released dead butterflies are cut off and the layer of clickers is renewed. Such devices do an excellent job of catching the pest, especially if you shake the plants daily and disturb the moths by making them fly over the bushes. The first thing they will do after the “fright” is to rush to the yellow color of the trap.
If the number of moths on glue traps is “off the scale”, and they clearly do not cope with the task, hit the heavy artillery – arm yourself with a sprayer and an insecticide solution (“Fufanon”, “Aliot”, “Actara”, “Confidor”, “Spark” and others ).
Observe waiting time after treatment before harvesting chemicals
Whichever insecticide you choose, when preparing the solution, strictly follow the instructions, not forgetting that you have to work indoors, not outdoors. Therefore, take care of reliable personal protective equipment – overalls, a master respirator, goggles, gloves, etc. P. P.
In our market you can choose a suitable product when selecting insecticides from white flies.
Among owners of collections of houseplants, it is said about this insect: “The white horror that flies at night.” But also in the garden, especially in the greenhouse or greenhouse, the white fly is the worst enemy. It causes great damage to plants, and it is very difficult to destroy it.
What is a white fly
White flies or aleuroids (Aleyrodidae) are small insects no more than 2.5 mm long with translucent body and white wings. They cause damage to plants at all stages of development. A stray larva emerges from eggs and quickly invades the leaf surface in search of a better habitat. After 5 to 6 days it turns into a nymph that sticks to the underside of the leaf and feeds on the juice of the plant. It is difficult to see, and its waxy coating makes the nymph invulnerable to insecticides. The most harmless stage of development is the pupa. But from it an imago (adult) is formed, which is characterized by great appetite and active reproduction.
Summer residents encounter mainly four species:
- Greenhouse whitefly (trialurodes vaporariorum);
- Strawberry white fly (aleurodes fragariae);
- Kol white fly (aleurodes brassicae);
- Tobacco white fly (Meisia tabaci) (1).
Interesting facts about the white fly
In greenhouses and greenhouses, the ideal breeding environment for the white fly is high humidity and heat. The problem of many gardeners are dense plantings in the greenhouse, which also create favorable conditions for the life of this pest.
There are several ways to protect greenhouse plants from whitefly. The most effective and environmentally friendly, but not available to all gardeners, is to repopulate the greenhouse with the whitefly’s natural enemy, the enkarsia. This predatory little wasp can eat up to 100 whitefly larvae.
Nets on vents and doors to prevent whitefly infestation, as well as a sulfur tester fence, are an important element of greenhouse protection.
Glass traps are also popular among gardeners.
Many people use folk remedies to control the white fly. However, if the infestation is severe, pesticides are a more effective remedy.
If a white fly appeared in the greenhouse, you need to fight it as soon as possible. First you can spray with folk infusions and decoctions of plants with insecticides:
Garlic infusion. Chop 3 – 4 large garlic cloves and pour 1.5 liters of hot water, let stand for 12 hours. Sprinkle on at least three times in 7 days intervals.
Infusion of yarrow. Pour 90 g of dried yarrow leaves in 1 liter of warm water and allow to infuse for 2 days. Spray at least 3 times for 7 days.
Tobacco Dust Decoction. Add 200 g of tobacco powder to 1 litre of boiling water and let it boil for 30 minutes. Strain the decoction, add 1 liter of water, add 30 g of detergent. Spray 3-4 times for 5 days.
You can also water the greenhouse with tobacco dust.
Birkenteer. 5 ml of birch tincture per 10 liters of water. Spray the plants 3-4 times in 5 days.
Ammonia Alcohol. Apply 35ml of ammonia alcohol to 10 litres of water. Spray the plants 3 to 4 times every 5 days.
Preparations of biological and chemical origin are used to combat whitefly. Always read the instructions and strictly follow the dosage, frequency and safety measures.
Actara. This is a systemic drug that penetrates the leaves of plants, the whitefly absorbs it with the sap and dies. It is recommended for flower and indoor plants. For greenhouse flowers treatment the preparation is diluted at the rate of 8 g per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate is 1 liter per 10 sq. m. For watering of indoor plants the dosage should be less – 1 g per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate is 1 liter per 25 pots (3).
For tomatoes and cucumbers can be used only in industrial greenhouses, but is not recommended for dacha growers.
Treatment (spraying and watering under the root) is recommended three times in 7 days, the protective effect lasts 1 month.
Iskra golden. The preparation is systemic, i.e. penetrates into plants. It is recommended to treat cucumbers and tomatoes – 5 ml per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate – 1 liter per 10 sq. m. Waiting time (time from treatment to harvesting) – 3 days (3).
Bison. Systemic drug of a new generation. Recommended for tomatoes and cucumbers. Darkens at the rate of 5 ml per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate – 1 – 3 L per 10 sq. M. Waiting time – 3 days (3).
Tanrek. Contact action, effective and low toxicity. Recommended for cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse. To treat plants, 5 ml of the drug should be diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption rate is 1 liter per 10 sq. m. Protective effect lasts up to 1 month. Waiting time is 3 days (3).
Biotlin. The system of preparations is recommended for tomatoes and cucumbers in the greenhouse. The drug is diluted at the rate of 5 ml per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate is 1 liter per 10 sq. m. Gartering before flowering and fruiting is recommended. Protective effect – 2 weeks. Waiting time – 3 days (3).
Comandor. A system recommended for tomatoes and cucumbers. Diluted at the rate of 5 ml per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate – 1 liter per 10 sq. M. Waiting time – 3 days (3).
Inta-vir. Contact campaign. Recommended for cucumbers and tomatoes in protected ground. For spraying of plants you need to dilute 1 tablet in 10 liters of water. Consumption rate – 1 L per 5 sq. M. Waiting time – 3 days (3).
Carbocin. Contact campaign. Recommended for spraying tomatoes and cucumbers in the greenhouse – 2 tablets per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate – 2 liters per 10 sq. M. Waiting time – 5 days (3).
Ochiva. This preparation is an aqueous condensate of sawdust smoke from hardwood. It is recommended for spraying greenhouse cucumbers. Consumption rate is 1 liter per 10 sq. m. Requires 4 treatments at 7-day intervals. The preparation does not require waiting time – the crop can be harvested almost a day after treatment (3).
How to get rid of whitefly in the open ground
Unlike the greenhouse, it is more difficult to get rid of whitefly in the open ground. Here you definitely can not do without biological and chemical means of protection. That is why it is so important to take preventive measures and immediately use protective sprays.
As in the greenhouse to protect plants from squirrels use infusions of garlic, tobacco dust, Sorrel, solutions of tar and solutions of ammonia. To improve the effect, grated tar soap is added to herbal infusions.
If tobacco (tobacco) grows in the garden, its leaves and stems can be used to control the pest: 400 g of chopped herbs should be grinded a little and watered with 10 liters of water. Soak in the sun for 2 days. Drain and squeeze the sediment, bring it to 20 liters, add 80 g of small domestic potatoes or tea muffs and not only the affected plants, but also those that grow nearby.
In the field, the same preparations are used as in the greenhouse.
Prevention of whitefly infestation
The whitefly tolerates not only frost, but also a drop in temperature below 10 ° C. However, the pest eggs have adapted to our climate and overwinter well in the ground. Nevertheless, their numbers can be reduced by digging the soil during frosts and fumigating greenhouses and breeding sites with insecticide stones in early spring, as well as by preventively spraying perennials during heat waves.
In addition, pest reduction is aided by:
- Timely removal of weeds and removal of plant debris;
- observance of spatial separation between plants;
- regular use of immune-boosting fertilizers and biostimulants;
- ventilation of greenhouses;
- planting herbs with strong aroma (lavender, mugwort, sage, etc.) near plants;
- regular inspection and preventive spraying (2).
We asked agronomist Oleg Ispolatov about whiteflies – he answered the most popular questions from gardeners.
How to get rid of whiteflies on tomatoes
Do not wait for whitefly damage tomatoes and sooty fungus, take measures – from mechanical removal of larvae to pesticide treatment. From preparations to combat whitefly on tomatoes in the greenhouse, we recommend Iskra Gold, Beeson, Tanrek, Biotlin, Komandor, Inta-vir, Karbotsin.
How to get rid of whiteflies on cucumbers
To protect cucumbers from whiteflies, it is important to remember that all chemical insecticides have a safe period of application before harvest. Therefore, give preference to organic preparations, such as Biovert, Fitoverm or folk remedies.
How to get rid of whiteflies on cabbage
Holes on withered leaves, sooty plaque – these are the traces of whiteflies on cabbage. At the beginning of whitefly settlement on cabbage beds you can use ammonia solution – 50 ml per 10 liters of water plus one tablet of nicotinic acid. For heavy artillery you can use Aktellik spray. It is also recommended to sprinkle the soil in the garden with wood ash.
How to get rid of whiteflies in seedlings
If whiteflies are found on seedlings, immediately start wiping the leaves from the back with a solution of detergent (1: 6) at least once every 3-4 days. For control, hang a yellow glue trap over the seedlings and move the seedlings gently each day to make sure the whitefly flies up and sticks to the trap. This is a signal that pest control measures need to be applied.
How to get rid of whiteflies on strawberries
Whitefly attacks strawberries only during the ripening period of berries, so it is better to limit the treatment of plantings to Fitoverm and spray the plants 3 times at intervals of 5 days. Strictly follow the instructions. After harvesting, it is necessary to clean strawberry plantings from whiteflies with Biotlin, and in case of mass infestation, use Actara.
How to get rid of whiteflies on indoor plants
The most effective, but time-consuming method – once a week to wipe the leaves on both sides with a soapy solution: 1 part detergent and 6 parts warm water. The mixture should be well whipped and applied to the plant with a soft sponge. In this way the larvae are washed off and killed. You can pour a little of the solution on the bottom and lightly moisten it.
Whitefly control at home is best carried out with sticky traps.
How to get rid of whiteflies on roses
Use strong preparations, such as Actara or Actellic, during the season when whiteflies appear on roses.
1. Gilyarov M.S., Babaev A.A., Winberg G.G., Zavarzin G.A. et al. biological encyclopedic dictionary (2nd ed., revised) // m.: Soviet Encyclopedia, 1986.
2. Zhemchuzhina A.A., Stenina N.P., Tarasova V.P.. Plant protection on private plots. Handbook // L : Agropromizdat, 1985