When you can remove flowers, shrubs, strawberries and conifers from the shelves in the garden
Plants protected for the winter are not a very attractive sight, and in the spring every dacha owner literally itches his hands as soon as possible to remove everything unnecessary from the garden. Of course, no one will leave the shelters for the whole summer, but in this matter everything can be spoiled.
In the harsh conditions of our winter, many plants have to be covered for the winter. This way we not only protect them from frost, but also from heavy snowfall, sunburn, and gusty winds. But even when plants are sheltered, they can fall victim to mildew or rodents. To prevent this from happening, you need to know exactly when and how you can release different crops.
When to open roses
Delicate and sullen roses often suffer from spring moisture under cover rather than winter frosts, but they can not remain unprotected either. Therefore, dacha owners who have planted these beauties in their homes should carefully choose the time to remove the spring cover of roses. In the middle belt is usually in mid-April, but guided not by the calendar, and the weather.
If the snow melts, the floor thaws, and the temperature at night does not fall below e-5 ° C, it’s time to open the roses.
Do not remove the cover from the roses in one day – they can be very badly affected by temperature changes, moisture and sunlight.
Start ventilating, lift the cover and poke a small hole in the top so that the moisture can evaporate. After a few days, remove the spinning fleece or shields from which the shelter was made and leave only plant material, such as spruce branches. Also remove after another 3-5 days, inspect the rose and, if necessary, carry out sanitary pruning of the bush. On sunny days, remember to protect the plant from direct sunlight for the first two weeks.
When water accumulates in the rose garden, run a ditch to remove the moisture so that the rose’s roots don’t silt.
When to remove protection from perennials
In northern regions, cover perennial flowers such as clematis, crocosmia, chrysanthemum, phlox, echinacea and others for the winter. Young plants planted this season are particularly sensitive to frost. Mulching with plant material or earth is usually sufficient. Only clematis and arboreal vistas need extra care to cover them.
Most perennials can be out of covering in the middle of April once night temperatures have reached at least zero degrees and once the ground has thawed to the depth of a spade’s bayonet. If you are not sure which parts of the plant should be removed after the winter, wait for the buds to swell and trim off the precisely dried branches and shoots.
When to open strawberries
It is not enough to create a full cover of strawberries for the winter, usually make do with a high layer of mulch, covering the roots and root neck of bushes, leaving the leaves open. As a winter mulch for strawberries, pine, straw or dry leaves are most commonly used. Although these materials should be organic, they should remain on the ridge until completely decomposed.
At the end of the first half of April, when the leaves on strawberries begin to grow and the soil dries out, it is necessary to remove mulch, treat the soil under the bushes, remove dried and frozen shoots, and mulch the plantings themselves.
Closer to the appearance of ovaries, strawberry bushes should preferably be mulched, so that the berries do not come into contact with the ground.
When to remove protection from grapes
The timing of the opening of grapes depends on the region where it is grown. In the middle belt of Russia and areas with a similar climate, it happens after April 10. Not sure if the frost has passed by this time? Don’t worry, grapes calmly tolerate a cold snap to o o-5 ° C.
If the sun is warming up in the daytime and a light frost is still in place, you can open the bunches, but do not take them out of the ditch for a week. This way it will get everything it needs, but at the same time it will remain protected from sharp winds and temperature variations.
If the weather forecast or omens indicate that frosts are expected in the next few days, cover the vines with a double layer of film or agro-soil.
Once the weather is above freezing, prune your grapes and treat them for pests and diseases.
When to remove cover from conifers and evergreens
Conifers and evergreens, for the most part, are more hardy, but they need to be covered for the winter as well. Why? First, because of the devastating sunlight reflected from the white snow, literally burning the branches of thuja, boxwood, juniper and cypress. Yellowing on one (east or southeast) side of the needle crown in spring indicates that it has not been sheltered and is sunburned.
It should not be removed along with the removal of the needles and evergreen boles. This is not done in one day, the plant gradually gets used to the light. To prevent the roots from starting to reserve, the cover can be lifted and allow the bush or tree to ventilate. The first time the cover is removed for a couple of hours in cloudy weather or in the evening, with each day the time of opening increases. The best time to remove covers is after the snow melts and the earth warms to a depth of 15-20 cm.
When to remove protection from ornamental shrubs
Hydrangeas large – Lad and Sawyer, Fortune’s birch, Buddleia David, Syrian hibiscus, blackberry and other ornamental shrubs that need shelter can suffer if not properly cared for in the spring.
After the snow has melted in the garden, you should start to aerate ornamental shrubs that are taken out uncovered. To do this, it is worth covering the bushes with film. If you prefer spunbond, you can do without ventilation.
Until the soil is fully covered, the branches of the plants should be in the shade, so as not to get burns. If it is dry under the film or frame protection, the plant should definitely be watered with warm water. Before the threat of a return frost, ahead of the shelter material, be ready to throw it over the bushes or just leave them under a thin agrofiber – this will not prevent the plant from waking up.
When you remove the plants, don’t throw them in the middle of the place, but determine their future fate right away. Those that are reusable (shields, ornamental houses, frame structures), dry and put away for the fall, mulch send to compost piles and rinse, dry and use to cover vegetables.
If you can remove the protection of fruit trees
With the onset of warmth, work in the garden resumes. First of all, fruit trees and shrubs are freed from the shelters that they protect in winter from frosts, sun scalds, snowfall warriors, and rodent attacks. Plants can suffer frost damage if protection is removed early. If shelter is left in place for an extended period of time, there is a chance of preemergence, bud damage, or mold fungus.
Conditions for removing cover
First year and young fruit trees up to 4 years old are very fragile and sensitive to temperature fluctuations in early spring. If the insulation in the fall was done correctly, and the protective layer was removed in time in the spring, the plants begin to grow and bloom, and in the fall they give a rich harvest.
After the air warms up, the cover is usually removed to a temperature of +10 ° C. Too early or late opening leads to various problems. In the first case, the probability of branches freezing or the development of infections from day and night temperatures increases. If the protective material is removed later, the branches are overloaded, and mold appears on them, the leaf, and the ovary.
Much depends on the material used to cover the trees:
- If the protective layer consists of conifers, burlap or agrotel, then you should not rush with the removal. These materials are good air permeable. Therefore, plant propagation is not threatened. They should be removed before the buds begin to blossom.
- If roofing or polyethylene is used for protection, the crown of the tree opens earlier. These materials are too dense, do not allow air to pass through. Condensation often forms among them, which causes interruptions and the development of mold.
Order of covering.
Protection from fruit trees and shrubs is removed at once or layer by layer. In the first case, stable heat and heating to the desired temperature. The crown is unpacked at once. In order to protect the bark from ignition from the sun’s rays, work on a cloudy day in the evenings is carried out in dry weather. In this case, the system is well adapted to the new conditions.
The covered material is not recommended to throw away immediately. It can be used to organize the shading of the crown on the southern side in clear weather to protect against sunburn.
With a gradual opening, the protection is removed one layer a day. The crown is opened first, and the cover is removed from the trunk recently. With this method, the tree adapts to air temperature and sunlight faster. To make the plants less stressed, arrange to air the seedlings every day. In the evening, cover the crowns again. This process is best suited for seedlings that have been seeded.
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If frosts are expected and leaves have already appeared on the trees, the trees are protected with a smoke screen. For this purpose, dry leaves, straw and peat are stacked in a large pile the day before the expected drop in temperature on the windward side of the garden. Wet firewood is placed on top of it. In the evening this pile is set on fire. Such a dam of 150 cm in diameter and 50 cm is enough to protect a 0.01 hectare garden from the cold.
In the middle of April, fruit trees are fully opened. At the same time, the protective layer is removed from the trunks. If the sapling grows in an open, well-lit place, it is protected from sunburns only by linen from burlap. The covering was completely removed at the end of April. Finally, free the trunk of the plant from the mulch. Then pruning the damaged discs and shading the trunks and skeletal branches with white lime. White lime reflects the sun’s rays and protects the bark from damage. Protection of fruit trees stops when they reach seven years of age.
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Conifers and evergreens are gradually stripped of their protection. To prevent the emergence of roots, first open the crown for a while to ventilate. The first time the cover is lifted for 2-3 hours in the evening or on a cloudy day. Then the time of opening increases. After the snow melts and the floor warms to a depth of 15 cm, protection is removed from conifers.
The material that covered the trees is not left in the center of the plot after removal. Decorative shields and frame structures made of young saplings are dried until autumn and put away for storage. Mulch from plants is placed in the compost pit. Agrottel is washed and dried, then used to cover vegetable beds.
To maintain the health of fruit crops and conifers in the spring, it is necessary to properly remove the protective material. Once warm weather sets in, gradually open plants to reduce the chance of sunburn, frost, or broken shoots.
