Spring frosts. How do I protect my plants from them?

How to protect plants from return frosts

Return frosts can bring a lot of problems. Unfortunately, I did not immediately understand this commonplace truth. I had to learn from my mistakes, and I had to reckon with the loss of part of my crop and part of my future crop.

Friesauber can cause many problems.

Return frosts can cause a lot of problems

To warn you against such mistakes, I want to discuss this relevant topic for many gardeners. Let’s understand the dangers of a return frost and how to prevent its deleterious effect on plants.

What are the dangers of a frost return?

The harm they can cause to many heat-loving crops is enormous. But in the early spring months, they pose no threat, since young plants which have just put out their leaves have no time to freeze. In the worst case, only the edges of the leaves will be damaged, but they will recover in no time at all.

In early spring, young plants do not have time to freeze.

In early spring, young plants will not have time to freeze, but the greater risk is late return frosts before June 10 in the middle zone. Those that occur during flowering of berry crops and fruit trees, emergence of seedlings and planting of seedlings of heat-loving tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, for which sudden frost is not only dangerous, but also destructive.

The fact is that young leaves, flowers and buds are incredibly sensitive to cold and are not able to withstand it. Under the influence of low temperatures, the cell sap begins to freeze, which causes the destruction of membranes, leading to the death of cells and the plants themselves.

Not everyone is afraid of the return of Frost.

    (d o-7. -9 ° C); (d o-5. -7 ° C); (d o-3. -5 ° C); , dill and spinach (d o-5. -7 ° C).

Who can be harmed by spring frosts?

Some plants may temporarily stop growing even after a brief spell of cold weather. Others even freeze or significantly reduce productivity.

For the buds of stone fruits (sweet cherry, peach, apricot, plum), the temperature of about 4°C is fatal. They are most vulnerable during flowering, when they may suffer at 2°C.

Fruit trees during flowering can be severely affected by frost

Fruit-trees can be seriously affected by frosts during flowering, but the former (even at pr i-1 °C) are thermophilic and grow close to culture Datura, Centia and others).

Even less negative temperatures are dangerous for immature or not rooted tomato, pepper or eggplant seedlings. From frosts of 1 … -2 ° C it is unlikely to die, but will certainly stop growing, and the beginning of fruiting will be delayed for about 10-15 days. So in order to somehow protect the young plants, do not forget a few days before planting seedlings in the ground to harden them and create conditions in which the plants will soon have to settle. Read more about the stages of hardening in the material:

How to predict return frosts

Despite the fact that the last decade of winter has clearly become warmer, the likelihood of spring return frosts has increased. Of course, it is impossible to predict them 100%. But why not use the clues of Mother Nature and the forecasts of weather forecasters, which, we must admit, have become quite accurate?

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Why not use weather forecasts?

Why shouldn’t I use weather forecasts? Don’t trust the weather forecast blindly: forecasters are people just like you and me, and technology does not give a 100% guarantee, so they can be wrong. Moreover, the forecast may be right for your area, but not for your garden plot. Plants in your cottage may be frost damaged, while plants in neighboring areas may remain intact. This depends on the varying exposure of slopes and terrain, as well as the presence of woodland plantings and even bodies of water near the property.

To be sure that the forecast is correct, it is better to compare data from several sources (television, Internet, etc.). Nature itself helps to predict frosts, you just need to be a little more attentive. So, when evening temperatures are close to +1. + 2 ° C – most likely there will be light frosts at night, and all heat-loving plants will need shelter. In addition, the lowest temperatures occur not at night, as many gardeners believe, but at dawn.

Other factors such as cessation of precipitation, clear skies, and calming wind currents also indicate that frosts are approaching. In windy, rainy or just overcast weather, the likelihood of frost is minimal.

Protecting the garden from frosts

  • spraying;
  • fuming;
  • building shelters;
  • fertilizing.

sprinkling method.

Used when the temperature drops to 0°C. To sprinkle, you need to apply a fine stream to the watering hose (the stream should resemble raindrops) and completely spray water on trees and shrubs that are threatened by frost. When the water freezes, heat is released, which saves the plants.

The sprinkling method: If the water freezes, saving heat is released

Sprinkling method: When water freezes, stored heat is released. Plant beds are also watered with a sprayer (watering can) carried on a hose, or with a drip irrigation system. Watering is done in the evening, just a few hours before the expected frost. When the temperature drops closer to 0°C, the water gradually begins to evaporate. The resulting vapour will provide a safe shelter for the plants: it has a high heat capacity, so it prevents cold air from rushing to the ground, and the plants can survive brief frosts unscathed.

The sprinkling method is considered quite effective for frosts around 5°C. However, it only works when there is no wind. Otherwise, your efforts will be in vain.

the fumigation method

For many years and even decades is considered one of the most popular. Its essence is that fires are made on the site and a warm smoke screen is formed. It mitigates the negative effects of frost on plants.

Fuel can be straw, sawdust, small brushwood, fallen leaves, potato tops and even manure. It is not so important what material will be the basis for the fire rescue. The main thing is to prevent its rapid ignition: it is necessary that it does not burn, but smolders, releasing large amounts of smoke. This requires a wet combustion of most of the above materials.

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Build a fire and create a wall of fog

We build a fire and create a smokescreen. The fire should be positioned so that the smoke spreads over the entire growing area. Find out in advance from which direction the wind blows (if the wind is strong, the smoking method is meaningless).

For the treatment of 1 napkin, a campfire about 1.5 m wide and with a layer of 40-60 cm is enough. This is how the prepared building material is distributed: about 20 cm of dry material (leaves, rice, straw) is placed under it, and a layer of wet material (up to 40-60 cm) is placed on top of it. Which will be the source of smoke. A layer of earth about 3 cm thick is spread evenly on it so that in the middle there is a small unfilled area through which smoke can escape.

All of this applies to small areas.

Smoke Protection. Photo from 3.404content.com

Smoke protection. Photo from 3.404content.com

Smoke begins as soon as the thermometer approaches 0°C. It should continue until sunrise: then the temperature reaches the highest minus values. Therefore, before sunrise, the area should be covered with a thick layer of smoke.

Despite its popularity and a number of advantages, the main of which are relatively simple execution and low cost, this method has also disadvantages, on the basis of which it is considered ineffective.

Disadvantages of the method:

  • Impossible to use in strong winds;
  • Not environmentally friendly: We have already talked about the dangers of burning crop residues here and here. And on how to dispose of leaves and other garden waste, read here;
  • For the method to work, there must still be a light breeze blowing. It is extremely rare to see it at night during freezing temperatures when the pressure is high. And without a light breeze to blow the warm smoke around the site, there will be no point, the smoke will just rise into the sky.

Frost Fertilizer.

Leaf fertilization with phosphorus and potassium also helps to effectively resist the destructive effects of frost (d o-5 ° C).

For example, you can use the preparation “Epin”, you can find useful information about it in the article Miracle Center Epin. Thanks to the fertilizer, the accumulation of sugar in the tissues of young plants increases, the content of free water decreases and the concentration of cell sap increases, which reliably protects plants from frosts.

Frost protection fertilizer

Frost control fertilizer is important: to fertilize plants for increased frost tolerance it is necessary to apply the fertilizer 10-24 hours before frosts, otherwise this procedure is meaningless.

In our catalog, which combines the offers of large gardening online stores, you can choose preparations that increase the frost resistance of plants. Select preparations.

All of these ways to save plants from frost are good if you are constantly on the construction site or get there quickly. But what about those who are rarely at the dacha? The answer is simple: the following method of dealing with the occasional frost is ideal for you – a cover.

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Protection made of improvised materials

To protect against the return frosts will help simple constructions from various shelter materials and a frame made of wood, fittings or metal-plastic pipes – something like a small greenhouse.

The creation of such structures will not take much time and do not require special knowledge, but the benefits will be huge. And disassembly is as easy as installation.

  • From the article Express greenhouse from improvised materials, you will learn how to make a greenhouse in a few hours from simple wooden grids and polyethylene film.
  • In the article, how and from what to build a simple greenhouse in the country, you will find inside ideas and useful recommendations for building greenhouses and simple film rooms without much cost.
  • The author shares in the article greenhouses for spring seeds personal experience of building green plastic tubes and spunbond.
  • You can find out what covering materials, with the exception of polyethylene film, can be used to build protective shelters. There are articles on how to choose covering material for plants, and 10 handy materials for winter shelter.

Small plants can be covered with cut plastic bottles, paper lids or plasticine (large cups) under acid cream.

Under a plastic bottle.

A plastic bottle shelter with excellent frost protection can also be a common dachshund shelter. To prevent potato seedlings from getting hurt, just sprinkle them. The mounds will help to reliably protect the leaf mass and uterine tubers, which means that the potatoes are not afraid of frost. Repeat the mounding until the threat causes a return frost.

Covering hills helps protect potatoes

Covering to protect potatoes helps, except planting potatoes mini and microtubers, seeds botanicals, as well as ply and sprouts. The fact is that at the beginning of the growing season, these plants are still very weak. After the mounding, they are simply not able to break through and deaden the thick layer of soil.

Covering from improvised materials perfectly copes with its task and reliably protects plants from frosts. Remember the main thing: whatever protective material you use, it should not touch the leaves.

Protection in greenhouses and hothouses

When frosts are expected in the regio n-4. -7 ° C, you need to take care of the inhabitants of greenhouses and greenhouses: they also need protection. You can use old newspapers and burlap or modern covering materials such as agrospan and lutrasil.

Protecting plants in greenhouses and greenhouses

Plant protection in greenhouses and greenhouses in the case when it is impossible to cover plants (they will not take off the supports already mature tomatoes and cucumber cilia), it is necessary to insulate the greenhouse itself. For this purpose, construct an additional covering from the same materials. It can be repaired both outside and inside. Just do not attach the second covering next to the first. Leave a small gap between them.

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If the plants need to be covered for a few days, then no matter where they grow – in the open ground or in the greenhouse – it is advisable to use modern covering materials, more about which you can learn from this useful article. It is advisable not to remove covers from plants earlier than 8-9 a.m.

GHSEN and plastic bottles can be effective helpers in this matter. To protect plants growing in the greenhouse from returning frosts, place cobblestones or dark-colored plastic bottles with water nearby. After they’ve warmed up during the day, give them heat and work on the principle of heating batteries at night. There is probably no perfect way to protect plants from return frosts. Each of the above methods is good in its own way, each has its own drawbacks. Which one you choose is up to you. But no matter what you choose, your plants will be grateful for your care and will give you a generous harvest.

Please share your experiences in the comments: What frost protection methods do you use and why?

6 tips to protect your garden from frost

What to do with frosts, which are still possible not only in April, but also in late May and early June? And everything is already active and all heat-loving plants, including grapes, begin to wake up?

Cold weather forecast

1. Covering with lutrasil or other non-woven covering material of thermophilic plants for protection against frosts in May and June

Since the weather this year is not quite normal, and the temperature is breaking all records, dacha owners have long removed all the covering materials from their plots. But there is no need to rush and delay it. Cover in one layer in case of risk of late frosts heat-loving dahlias, zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers, cucumber and tomatoes.

Ready-made cones to protect needles are very convenient to use, you can cover quite mature heat-loving plants.

Representatives of the pumpkin family (cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini and pumpkin) and nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) do not tolerate temperature drops to +10 and die at temperatures below 0. First of all, such crops need protection from frost.

2. watering the garden and vegetable garden to protect the garden from spring frosts

Watering the evening before is one of the easiest ways to protect a plot from frosts up to 5. -6° c. At the same time, at the end of May, temperatures rarely drop to. -3 ° с.

So take a hose or bucket in your hands and abundantly water the garden: 5 buckets for adult vines and currant and raspberry bushes, 5-7 buckets for adult apple and pear trees, 2 liters for dahlia.

3. spraying or spraying the garden

When the air temperature in the garden and vegetable garden drops to o-5 … -6 ° C, it makes sense to carry out a shallow spraying with water. The night before, on the night in which a strong drop in temperature is promised, spray the crowns of fruit trees (apples, cherries, pears, plums, apricots) and bushes (raspberries, hydrangeas, currants) from a hose with a fine bundle so that the water drops cover all the leaves.

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Water droplets that hit the leaves, when the air temperature drops heavily, begin to freeze and give their heat to the young leaves. This procedure is especially suitable for those gardeners who have already installed a stationary watering system on the plot.

But be careful: the method works only in windless weather, as in windy weather the opposite effect occurs.

4. Leaf fertilizer to reduce the effects of late spring frosts

Leaf fertilizer can be applied in early spring under young leaves. Use a complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizer if there is a risk of frost. Spray the garden in the morning with clean water with a stimulant such as Epin or Zircon. This will help protect the garden from the effects of frost and provide leaf stimulation through the leaves.

5. Garden Smoke.

A good, simple and cheap method of protecting the garden from frost is fumigation, which works when nighttime temperatures drop to about 4°C.

The fire is lit on the leeward side of the plot, and it is important that the material smells and does not burn. Therefore, for such a fire, as in the grill, are good not wood, but ordinary wood waste. Here you can use sawdust, shavings, last year’s leaves and even freshly cut grass – time to mow the lawn!

The technology for stacking a smoky fire is very simple: Stack all of the above ingredients in a common pile and place a stake in the middle. The evening before frosting, remove the stake and light your pile. The hole from the stake serves as a chimney. A stake with a diameter of 1.5 metres and a height of 50 cm can protect a garden plot of about one hectare for one night.

But be careful: if there is a strong wind, it is difficult to keep the smoke on the plot: they protect the gardens of neighbors, but not their own. Conversely, if the wind does not blow at all, the smoke rises up and does not protect the area.

6. The use of modern chemicals – cryo-medicines to protect the garden from frost

Cryo- or antifreezes help plants to tolerate sharp changes in temperature and increase their frost resistance. According to their effect on plants, they are divided into two types: penetrating (glycerin and dimethyl sulfoxide) and non-penetrating (sucrose, trehalose, ficoll, albumin, polyvinylpyrrolidone). Non-penetrating cristivates are contained as additional components in solutions of the first group, as they are more effective.

Spraying of annual and perennial plants should be carried out in accordance with the instructions supplied with the preparation. Spraying should be carried out at least 6 hours before possible frosts. The protective effect lasts for a week.

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