Rules for the propagation of grapes with cuttings

How to use grapes with cuttings?

In order to maintain a good, rich harvest of grapes on your plot, it is not enough to plant only a system and take care of it. You need to propagate the variety you already have on your own with cuttings. Of course, you can always buy adult seedlings from a nursery, but this is expensive and you can’t guess with the variety. And preparing and germinating cuttings yourself is much easier.

How to prepare cuttings, store and stock?

Propagation of grapes with cuttings is the most common way among gardeners. Cherry is based on the rare ability of wild grapes to fully recover from a single shoot. For novice gardeners, propagating grapes with cuttings seems to be a complicated method, but with the right approach, the process is quite simple. If you try hard and study the tips of experienced gardeners, you can achieve a good result the first time. And in 2-3 years to gather a rich harvest from young bushes. The main condition is the proper preparation and storage of corms. Grapes can be cut in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in autumn. With proper storage in winter, cuttings (chubunks) are already ready for spring, and in summer they will gain strength and survive the first winter well.

Autumn cuttings are better suited to the middle zone, where winter temperatures drop below e-20 and grapes have to be covered for the winter. In the south, grapes can be diluted in spring with young, pruned green shoots.

The conditions for making cuttings depend on climatic conditions – the main thing is to have time to pass frosts. It is better to start cuttings after the fall of leaves, when the vine has grown and gained nutrients over the winter. In the middle belt of the vine can be cut later – in August-September, and in the south – later. Harvested cuttings are harvested in the fall and properly prepared for planting in the soil the following year.

In spring and summer (in June-July) you can cut cuttings from the vine of the beard bush and plant them at an acute angle in the ground. This should be done before the beginning of the flowering period. Put green cuttings about 30 cm long in water for a few hours. Before planting, the lower leaves are removed and planted in the ground in a permanent place. The planting place should be watered every day. And for the winter it is necessary to cover well. With such a rosette, the first harvest will be in 4-5 years.

In the summer, cut green cuttings can be prepared for the winter and planted in the spring, then they will be ready, and you will bear fruit faster.

Preparing the cuttings

At home, preparing cuttings for storage and spring planting in the ground is very easy. If you prepare cuttings in the fall, then choose cuttings from good bushes with a rich harvest. The right choice of cuttings is the key to successful propagation and abundant fruiting.

Cut cuttings from the vine, whose diameter does not exceed 6 mm. It is believed that thicker cuttings do not root.

Only mature vines are used for cuttings, the stock should crack when bending. The bark should be evenly colored, light to dark brown, without spots.

The vine must be healthy and green at the cut. Chubki should come out without damage and signs of various diseases and fungal infestations. It is recommended that vines be cut from fruiting branches, so rooting results will be higher. Cut cuttings from the middle part of the АВТ.

Cut at least 70 cm long cuttings with 3-8 eyes on each. Some gardeners prefer to cut cuttings a little over a meter long. After storage, the lazy parts should be cut off. Make it slanted and remove the remains of leaves, unformed shoots and stems. Parts of the vine for chubkus choose more even, it is more convenient to save and root them.

If you do not want to root chubok at the same time, the prepared cuttings should be tied with a soft rope, gather 10-12 parts in a pile and leave for storage. Store the cuttings in a cool place (temperature no higher than +5). Most often stored in the basement or basement. A bundle of cuttings is placed in a container with moistening soil or sand and left for storage. In southern regions, cuttings are sometimes stored directly on the plot. Dig a ditch or just a hole, about half a meter deep. The bottom is sprinkled with sand, neatly lay out the blanks and cover with earth. On top of it, it is also insulated with sawdust or leaves, which must be covered with foil. You can also store the cuttings on the refrigerator door. Soak the cuttings in water for about 24 hours, then wrap them in polyethylene and leave them in storage. It is convenient to keep the Chubuki in small quantities.

Some gardeners recommend disinfecting the cuttings before storing them. This can be done by holding the cuttings in a solution of copper sulfate or potassium etchant. Only then can they be bundled up and stored.

When storing cuttings in the basement or refrigerator, check the condition of the air. The humidity and temperature need to be adjusted. The buds may freeze or dry out, then the cuttings cannot be rooted. And if it is too warm, the buds begin to blossom, such cuttings cannot be planted in the spring, they will not take root and will die.

Considering the storage conditions and the fact that in January-February, if you choose a place to store blanks, and the fact that in January-February they must be pulled out and begin to grow seedlings.

Rooting methods.

Rooting of cuttings begins in late January to early February, depending on climatic conditions. The process should begin about 2 months before planting, if the soil warms up to +10. They should wake up and check them for roots in the cuttings. The cuttings stand at room temperature for a while. Then each corm is cut at both ends at a distance of 2-3 cm. If the cut is green and a drop of sap remains on the cuttings, the cuttings are alive and suitable for rooting. If the cut is brown and there is no sign of sap, the cuttings are dead and unusable. If the length of the cuttings allows, you can cut another 5-7 cm. It is possible that the shoot still lives in the middle. Sometimes, cuttings begin to bend, and then you can see water droplets on them without cutting. Such cuttings are not suitable for rooting.

To germinate the pods yourself at home, you must first soak the live blanks in warm water for 2 days, changing the water regularly. Sometimes honey or sugar is added to the water. If the stock gives mold, potassium permanganate can be added to the water. The cuttings should be immersed in water completely, if there is no such possibility, then at least 2/3. After that, the cuttings can be placed in a solution containing root formation stimulants (“Rooting”). At the same time, you should make 2-3 small vertical cuts on the vine. On the prepared cuttings there should be 2-3 live eyes, the upper cut is made even at a distance of 4-5 cm from the upper bud. The bottom cut can be made oblique or double-sided, which increases the area of u200bu200 root formation. The lower cut is made directly under the bud at a distance of no more than 1 cm.

Rooting grape cuttings can be done in different ways: in filler, water and even foam. The process of rooting and germination takes a long time (about 6 days), you should not wait for the rapid emergence of roots and greenery. The main danger of rooting at home is the awakening of buds and the appearance of leaves before the formation of the root system. To avoid this, experienced gardeners recommend warming the seedlings from below, not allowing the buds to cool down.

To achieve this is very simple, the seedlings should be kept on the window, where the heat from the heating system will warm the soil. The window can be periodically opened, then the buds will not sprout prematurely.

In water

This is considered to be the easiest way of rooting. For this purpose, it is better to use glass containers. This way it is more convenient to monitor the process of formation of the root system. The water should be warm, about 22-24 degrees. Chubs are immersed in water and periodically washed from the mucus formed because of the sap. If the room is warm, you can open a window to keep the top buds of the pods cool.

Keep an eye on the water level and replenish as needed. After a few weeks, the root system forms. When the root length reaches 5-6 cm, the seedlings can be transplanted into the ground. If weather conditions allow, you can immediately plant in a permanent place. When transplanting cuttings, be careful to break or damage the young roots.

In filler.

For rooting grape cuttings, sawdust is most often used. And you can also use peat, sand, enriched soil, sometimes even ordinary wet cloth. The main condition of any filler is to maintain the necessary moisture and heat for the formation of roots. Prepared cuttings are lowered to a depth of 5-7 cm in a moisture-absorbing substrate and left in a warm and bright place for several weeks. Do not forget to moisten the filler and avoid drying out the cuttings. Once the roots have emerged, the cuttings can be transplanted into a container with soil. It is not necessary to remove the rest of the filler when planting (unless, of course, it is polyethylene or cloth).

This method has one significant disadvantage. The formed leaves and shoots take a lot of moisture from the filler, and there is a real danger of the cuttings drying out. You must constantly monitor this. Some gardeners advise to remove the seedlings in the shade, but such poor formation of young shoots is possible. You can cover the cuttings with polyethylene and create a greenhouse effect and a high percentage of humidity.

On the cabinet

This method requires a natural cloth, water and polyethylene. First you need to prepare the cuttings as in the previous methods. Then moisten the cloth and wrap each cuttings. Wrap only the lower part of the stem, where the roots are formed. Next, wrap the cuttings with polyethylene over the wet cloth. The top part of the stem remains open.

In this way, we seed everything. We place the cuttings so that the sunlight hits the open part, and the tops in the fabric remain in the shade. In 2-3 weeks, the roots should appear, and the Chubuks are ready to be planted in the ground.

On Styrofoam.

This is one of the most unusual ways of sprouting seedlings. You need foam squares of about 3×3 cm and a container of water. In the middle you cut a hole for the cuttings. The sticks should not fall out of the slots in the foam.

We fill the container with water and immerse the Styrofoam with the cuttings in it. Leave the container in a warm and bright place. The water should be changed regularly. If desired, add a little honey or sugar. In about a month the roots will appear, Chubuki can be transplanted into the ground.

Nuances of cultivation

After germination, when the root system has formed, the roots reach 1-2 cm in length, and the first shoots and a few leaves appeared from the buds, it is time to transplant seedlings into a seedling box (the so-called “school” for transplanting seedlings). Instead of a box you can use any suitable containers: disposable cups, cut plastic bottles. The main thing is that they should be large enough for the free growth of the root system. Have a diameter of 10 cm, a depth of about 25 cm.

At the bottom of the container for seedlings it is necessary to pour drainage. Then fill it with a mixture of fertile soil and sand. The bottom should be loose. Seedlings are planted to a depth of 7-10 cm. The main condition for growing seedlings is the formation of a strong root system. Do not allow water to the soil. Watering can be compensated by spraying the leaves. The first watering after planting should be abundant, and then rare, so that the young roots do not begin to rot.

Chubs from above can be covered with cut plastic bottles or polyethylene and ventilated from time to time. Seedlings are placed in a warm, bright place with obligatory exposure to sunlight.

The process of growth and root formation will take 2-3 weeks. Roots during this time should grow to 10 cm. At this point, you can feed the seedlings with a potassium solution. When the open ground warms up to 10-15 degrees of heat, they are planted in a permanent place.

How to plant correctly?

In May – early June, when the floor has warmed up and night frosts are over, the seedlings are planted in the open ground. Before this, it is better to harden the seedlings in the fresh air for a few days and pinch the tops. Young shoots with several leaves and a developed root system should already appear on the corms.

Seedlings are planted in the open ground at a distance of 30-40 cm. Seedlings should be planted so that the upper bud was at a height of 7-10 cm from the ground. It is not necessary to release the root system from the clump of earth, so as not to damage the root system. The bushes are covered and compacted with fertile soil. After planting, grapes need abundant watering.

Subsequent care

In the first two weeks, the seedlings need more care. It is necessary to create shade away from direct sunlight. When spring frosts occur, young seedlings should be covered with polyethylene.

When 10-12 leaves appear on the seedling, the apex should be pruned so that a strong root system can be formed and the vine can mature. As the young shoots grow, they should be tied to a vertical support. Steps, with the exception of the lower ones, are removed.

Growing grapes from cuttings may seem a laborious and expensive process, but it is worth it. In the first summer, seedlings grow to 1.5-2 m in height, gaining strength for the first winter in the open ground. Grapes are a fast-growing crop, developing even from a single shoot. And the harvest is ripe already in 2-3 years.

All about grape propagation with cuttings at home

To obtain their own planting material, many gardeners propagate the best varieties of grapes with cuttings. A matured vine is used as the material. In such conditions, you can be sure that the seedling will be healthy, unlike a purchased bush. And the variety will be suitable. This method is the most versatile, it can be done at home. This means that you can plant grapes even on the windowsill, when it is winter outside. How grapes are propagated by cuttings (shoots) and when exactly it is propagated by cuttings, as well as the timing of planting for germination, will be described in detail below.

Why is this option the most effective?

Grapevine can be propagated in many ways, but the best rooted material from mature cuttings. This technique is simple and gives good results. From the cuttings will later grow a strong and fertile bush.

Planting material quickly takes root and easily takes root in a new place. Cuttings are able to fully preserve the pedigree of the vegetation, which gives a significant advantage to this method of grape reproduction. How and when to properly propagate grapes with cuttings to get a good harvest, let’s consider below.

harvesting and storage

The right choice of planting material is very important for successful propagation of cuttings and further plantings.

The main harvesting period is in late autumn, so the main question in this question is how to propagate grapes in autumn? The preparation of cuttings goes through several important stages:

1. Cutting. Cuttings are recommended to be harvested in late fall, but before the onset of frosts. At this time, the grapes go into hibernation, so the cuttings are better preserved.
2. Storage. Harvested cuttings should be stored properly, they are sorted by variety, tied separately and signed not to be mixed up. You can store them in the basement in wet sand or in the refrigerator, wrapped in a cloth and a bag.
3. Nurturing. Before rooting, cuttings need to be awakened from hibernation. Cut off both ends with garden shears. Soak them for a while. After a while, change the water.

Why should you germinate?

Gardeners generally take cuttings for rooting from vigorous and well-developed vines. The rooted planting material adapts quickly to local conditions. Roots usually form within 2-4 weeks, so the offshoot can be planted at the appointed time.

When rooted in water, root formation is clearly visible. Here it is quite possible to prevent early emergence of seedlings. The method of germination in the substrate allows you to immediately plant the seedling in the open ground without intermediate transplanting. After all, this can traumatize young grapes.

Preparing for rooting

Root cuttings that were wintered in a cold place in the spring. This process is as follows:

1. Take the cuttings from storage in early March. Check for lazy, black spots. Trim off the ends by 1 cm.
2. Then they are prepared for rooting for a few days – soaked in melted or spring water. During this time, the water is changed several times.
3. They are treated with growth stimulants, such as epin, rhizomevin, humic soda. You can also add a little honey to the water.

Important! It is desirable to take water of natural origin for soaking drainage. Tap water contains chlorine compounds.

Methods

Rooting of cuttings can take place in different ways. The simplest of them – germination of grape cuttings in small containers. Water or substrate is used for this purpose. The technologies are very similar.

Foam

In order to take care of grape cuttings as little as possible, you can use an unusual method of rooting, in which you need to use foam.

1. From the fabric is cut off 3×3 cm.
2. A hole is cut in the middle so that the cuttings go inside. He should not fall out when planting.
3. Choose a wide container and pour water into it. There we also release the foam swimmers, where they spend about three weeks.
4. We change the water regularly.

In a jug of water.

How do you plant Chubuks in water in the spring? This is the most common rooting method among grape growers.

1. In a 1-liter mug, we pour water heated to room temperature to a height of about 3-5 cm from the floor.
2. A bundle of cuttings is placed in the container. The water must be changed regularly, as this process produces a turbid liquid.
3. The jar is placed on the window sill. When the water evaporates, refill it to the required amount, but no more.
4. After a month, white roots become visible. They are transplanted into the ground in the spring, when they reach a length of 3 mm.

In peat pellets.

Buy peat in the specialized store in the form of tablets. As a rule, such pellets are used for germinating plants.

1. Soak them in water for a while to swell and then plant cuttings in them.
2. Cover with plastic.
3. Moisten the peat as needed.
4. In 2 weeks calluses will form and from them roots will form.

Sädemelle

A good substrate for germinating cuttings is conifers.

1. A layer of up to 3-4 cm is poured into a container and moistened.
2. The cuttings are soaked in water for several days.
3. The cuttings are placed in the middle of the container with sawdust.
4. Cover with sawdust so that the bottom layer does not dry out.

Sawdust can be mixed with coarse sand, decomposed humus. Depending on the grape variety, rooting takes 2-4 weeks.

Puzenko method

Winegrower Natalia Puzenko is known for her effective method of germinating cuttings. If you apply it in practice, you can get excellent seedlings at minimal cost.

1. Soak the linen material in water and squeeze it.
2. Spread it out on a table and wrap the cuttings as in a diaper.
3. Place the woven roll together with the planting material in a plastic bag.

Lay the cuttings for about 3 weeks until roots form.

Kilching

This method is well known among grape growers. Typically, Kilchevanie is used for rooting, although it is not a mandatory procedure. The advantage of this technique is that it increases the chances of successful rooting in a permanent location.

The process itself is a temporary imbalance with respect to awakening buds and roots. Although this method gives good results, it is still quite difficult for home conditions.

Spring rooting in containers

Once the cuttings have sprouted, they need to be strengthened before planting the seedlings in the field. Plant material with 2-3 mm white roots is placed in a tall container with light soil. This can be a cut plastic bottle or a tall plastic cup.

When to plant in bottles and cups: immediately in spring or in advance for the winter? If planted in winter, when exactly and how to prepare the plants at home? Preparation for rooting, treatment before it and the direct planting of grape corms in bottles takes place in late February, and with the onset of warm weather in the spring they are planted in the ground. This process takes about two weeks.

In bottles.

Planting chubuks in bottles in the spring is done in the following order:

1. Open a plastic bottle by removing the lid.
2. Make holes in the ground.
3. Fill in a layer of drainage and then soil mixed with coconut fibers.
4. Place the cuttings in loose soil at an angle.
5. Make a cover of polyethylene on top.
6. Ventilate and moisten the soil from time to time.

Root cuttings will appear in 3-4 weeks.

In cups

Cuttings in cups

Planting plants in cups. Cuttings with roots formed in the water should be in a container z. b. grown in a beaker. Skin – made cuttings in cups – turn the chibuks into small vegetative spring cuffs. They can be transplanted into the field as early as spring.

Rooted cuffs will take a little longer to germinate. This process can take up to one month. Soil mixture, which consists of peat, sawdust, a small amount of organic matter and shredded leaves, is collected in cups.

Planting in boxes is the same principle as in bottles and cups.

Care

Planting material during germination requires proper care. The boxes need to be watered, loosened and fertilized.

In bottles.

How often should water cuttings be planted in bottles? Initially, they are watered three times a week. When roots form, watering is reduced to two times. It is desirable to use melted or natural water. Cold water should not be poured, rotting may occur. It is recommended to pour water into a tray in which containers are placed.

In cups

In small containers, watering root cuttings is brought to three times a week in cups. To the moisture does not evaporate quickly, you can cover the chibuki top with a plastic lid. Ventilate from time to time.

Cuttings are placed in a bright place. After the appearance of true roots and the first 4-5 leaves, the plant is watered less to activate the growth of new vegetative shoots. Then they can be transplanted to another container or to another school.

Fertilizer

Grape seedlings need to be fertilized like any other vegetation. Especially at the stage of root formation. As a fertilizer, the wine vine prefers a granular form. It also does not bother with sprinkling, but in a dissolved form.

For better root formation, you can use mineral complexes, which contain nitrogen – 2 g, phosphorus – 2.5 g, potassium fertilizer – 2 g. The components are dissolved in 5 liters of water. The process is repeated after 14 days.

Which method is better and why?

According to many breeders, peat tablets are considered the best option for sprouting spots.

Although this method is costly compared to the others, where there is almost no investment, but because once the young roots grow, the corm can be planted in the open soil with a tablet, without disturbing the root system. In this case, the stage disappears from the bottle or glass, which saves you time.

Important! In peat tablets is the fastest of the methods, mainly due to the enrichment of the tablet itself with drugs to stimulate root growth.

Propagation with green cuttings in summer

In summer, cuttings are cut from mature vines and green shoots that remain after harvesting excess vegetation. This process usually takes place between May and June. The stalked shoots are placed in a container of water. You can wrap it in a damp cloth and put it in a cool place for 24 hours. Select the middle part of the vine for the roots. Sprouting can be done in any way.

So we figured out how to propagate the grape variety you like and grow cuttings in the ground for planting and use the popular method in both spring and summer. After proper care, you can get great planting material.