Phytophthora of plants and its control

Phytophthora: Description, causes, symptoms, control measures

Phytophthorosis is a disease that is provoked by fungus-like microorganisms from the Phytophthora family. The name of the pathology is translated from the Greek as “destroying the plant”. A total of 70 varieties of the parasite are known. Signs of infestation can be seen on trees, grass and shrubs. Mycelial organisms live on the surface of garden tools, in the floor covering, above-ground and underground organs of affected plants.

Types of Phytophthora.

A count of known species:

• Phytophthora infestans Mont de Bary. It affects potatoes and other nocturnal crops that become active from May through August;
• Phytophthora fragariae Hick. There are two forms (var. Rubi, var. Fragariae). Crops of raspberries, strawberries, and buckwheat can be killed by microorganisms of this species;
• Phytophthora Cactorum Schroet. Symptoms indicative of infestation appear on trees in families such as rosea chervona and beech.

If you know how to deal with this disease, you can save your crop before the disease appears.

Late stage symptoms.

To choose methods of control, it is necessary to make a diagnosis. Typically, the examination is limited to examining the system.

It should be noted that the best therapy is definitely timely prevention.

The gardener should be concerned if:

• Plots of gray, brown, black or purple have appeared on the stems, leaves and roots;
• A whitish patina has appeared on the back of damp leaves, and a characteristic pigmentation has appeared on the face;
• The flowers darkened and fell off;
• Fruits were first covered with spots and then turned black.

The latter symptom is often a reaction to irregularities in the cultivation of agricultural and horticultural plants. It is quite difficult to save a damaged plant. It all depends on at what stage the disease was detected.

Difficulties arising at this stage are due to the latent type of infection or the negative influence of abiotic factors. Sprouts remain susceptible to phytophthora fungi throughout the growing season. Rot that appears due to late blight has a dry and hard surface. If left untreated, the damaged plant will gradually wither away.

Phytophthora can develop due to the following factors:

• insufficient air;
• The presence of protective agents;
• Condensation;
• Ignoring optimum temperature conditions;
• Improper plant rotation;
• Excessive planting density;
• Excess nitrogen and lime in soil;
• Lack of manganese, potassium, iodine and copper.

Phytophthorosis is classified as an infectious herbivore. At first, the disease affects the leaf plates from below. Gradually the spots take over the healthy tissues. As a result, plants fall off or wither. Dark areas appear on infected tubers, from which decomposition begins.

Phytophthora formations on fruits become deeper and wider. Both green and mature vegetables are at risk.

Causes of infestation of late

Phytofofto) is transmitted to a healthy person by direct contact, through the soil and by the wind from a diseased plant. Boeswilt spores are transmitted through location and “travel” on the soles of the gardener. Don’t forget pets and insects. You can also become carriers of the infection.

The pathogen can live in the soil for several years. In this case, its activation occurs when the right conditions arise. It is possible to get rid of the disease with the help of chemical preparations and folk methods.

Prevention of phytoparasite infection in the open ground

This is one of the most important steps. Preventive measures include:

• Purchasing varieties that are resistant to late blight. Early hybrid varieties are best preferred.
• Planting material before planting;
• Choosing a suitable location. In this case, it is necessary to be guided by the needs of the planted crop.
• In accordance with the recommended dates of sowing;
• Observance of crop rotation. For example, tomatoes cannot be planted in accordance with other members of their family. Their close proximity is also unacceptable; Timely implementation of agrotechnical measures (loosening, mulching, feeding, pruning, and stepgrassing of bushes);
• Planting suitable neighbors. For tomatoes, these are garlic, curly beans, onions, peas, corn, marigolds;
• Proper watering. Water should be poured under the root, it should not get on the leaves and fruits.

Onion shells and peat should be added to the hole with a lot of limestone. The earth around the bush should be sprinkled with sand.

Plants should not be planted too close to each other.

With the help of immunomodulators, the gardener can increase the resistance of agricultural plants. At the same time, he should not neglect cleaning the soil from garbage and waste, which can become sources of infection.

Preventive treatments often include spraying with tricerin and phytosporin-M.

There are quite a few methods that can be used to protect or cure a plant from late blight. It is important to treat when the weather is dry. But postpone it not only because of precipitation. Another factor that can hurt is a strong wind. You should also pay attention to the air temperature.

How to treat the land

For this purpose, microbiological preparations and fungicides are used. The latter are introduced into the soil in the spring (4 weeks before planting) and in the fall.

It should be noted that chemical treatment is contraindicated during flowering. This fact is explained by the high risk of damage by bees.

The following preparations are especially popular among gardeners: Ordan, copper sulfate, thrips death prey, Bordeaux mixture, phytosporin-m.

Preventive measures in the greenhouse

To ensure that plants in the greenhouse are not affected by the disease, the gardener must monitor the temperature and humidity.

The list of recommended measures also includes:

• Disinfecting the inventory and rooms before planting. Sulfur-containing products can be used at this stage. The treatment should fully coincide with the precautionary measures.
• Adherence to agronomic requirements. Watering should be infrequent, but abundant.

Neglecting them can lead to the death of the entire crop. Regular preventive treatment minimizes the risk of late blotch infection.

Infectious measures in the greenhouse

Phytophthora is a disease that cannot be completely cured. It is possible to protect agricultural plants by suppressing the harmful microflora. Means for the treatment of systems planted in the greenhouse and in the open area are the same. In any case, there should be several sessions, otherwise the useful effect of chemical compositions and folk methods is unlikely to come.

It should be noted that the risk of poisoning is much higher when destroying late sloth in the greenhouse than when processing in the open air. To avoid this, the gardener must follow all precautions.

How to treat the greenhouse against late blight

All preparations and pesticides used in agriculture are included in the state catalog. In order to get rid of late blight, such preparations are used as:

• Consendo – Phenamidon, Propamarocarb hydrochloride;
• Sectin Phenomenon – Mancoside, Phenamidone;
• Privuragia – Fozil, Propagating Tone;
• Thanos – Cymoxanil, a stovepipe.

Hom is particularly popular with dacha growers. This fungicide contains copper chloride.

Many use furatilin, metronidazole and trichopol as a treatment. Among pesticides, phytosporin is the leader. It can be combined with other drugs. Orda is a fungicide of hazard class 3. The frequency of application is determined by the duration of the therapeutic effect. The solution is prepared according to the enclosed instructions.

You can also use potassium pergonate, potassium chloridecalcium, green, boric acid, bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate and calcium nitrate.

Combating phytophthora with folk remedies

Your list is quite extensive. For maximum effect, folk methods should be used in parallel with chemical preparations.

Means	Preparation and application
Sufficient amount of garlic	100 g of crushed heads are poured with a glass of water. Sustain for 24 hours. Strain and filter to a solution of potassium dressing (0.1%). Between sprays should pass at least 12-14 days.
ash.	It is used for both sex ripening and for making a solution. The latter consists of 5 kg of ash and 10 liters of liquid. Liquid soap is added to improve the sticking effect.
acetic acid	A bucket of water and half a glass of table vinegar is required. The plants are treated completely.
toothpaste	A tube for 10 liters of liquid is taken. Bushes are completely sprayed, it is desirable to do this after the rain.
Endurance	It takes 1 kg of lazy hay, 100 g of urea and 10 liters of heated liquid. The composition exists for 3 days.
Copper cable.	The roots of seedlings are carefully wrapped with copper wire before planting. It is cooled.

The gardener can choose any method from those listed above. The main thing is to carry out prevention and treatment in time. Otherwise, phytophthora quickly spreads across the plot and destroys the entire crop.

Phytophthora (late blight) of plants and the fight against it

Phytophthora is one of the most common fungal diseases, which mainly affects potatoes and tomatoes. However, the fungus is not limited to these vegetable plants, but also spreads to cucumbers, peppers, apple trees, strawberries and others. The disease is caused by a species of the fungus phytophthora infestans. Scientists have found that this species has an amazing ability to survive and does not die in water. A distinction is also made between fungi such as buntings and bollworms, which mainly affect grain plants.

Phytophthora infestans mycelium settles in the plant cell and feeds by parasitizing on it. A feature of the fungus is its ability to reproduce sexually and asexually. Zoospores divide, and thus a new mycelium is formed. They are also called ground filaments because they carry the fungus to other plants.

Signs of plant infestation

The fungus overwinters in the ground or in infested tubers. With the arrival of spring and warming spores and begin to actively spread in the plant. First the lower layer of leaves is affected, and then the rot rises to the fruit along the trunk. The first signs of infection appear on the outside of the leaf. The disease looks like brown spots, and there are fungal spores inside. Wet weather is a cheap breeding ground for phytophthora.

Germ growth occurs in all directions. In addition, the fungus settles on both tires and green fruits. When the crop is already harvested and looks healthy, and Phytophthora spores have entered the fruit, rotting begins after a while.

If the conditions are favorable for Phytophthora growth, namely a humid environment, heat and no rain, it only takes 3 days to completely infect the plant. And if you do not notice the fungus, in 2 weeks the entire plot will rot under its detrimental effects. It is especially difficult in greenhouses, as there is a closed room and the spores quickly spread to neighboring plants.

How to fight phytophthora

Experts say that it is easier to prevent the disease with preventive measures, than to suffer for a long time and try to treat them. If you observe the following measures and regularly carry out measures to prevent the disease, phytophthora of grasses can be avoided:

• Isolate tomato showers from potatoes, as it is the potato crops that can store fungal spores;
• Grundung after harvest. Also sow seeds under the winter so they will kill the parasites in the spring. The most effective green fertilizer is mustard.
• Make a planting plan for nightshades. This means that potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants should not be planted in the same area until 3 years later;
• The soil should be tilled in the fall and spring;
• A ventilation system should be installed in the greenhouses and regular spraying should be done;
• All residues in the form of leaves, stems, and lazy fruit are best burned in the fall;
• All seeds, both own and purchased, should be treated with a 1% potassium persulfate solution before sowing. Soak the seeds for 20 minutes, then rinse well under running water and dry;
• Feed tomato seedlings regularly with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

When the seedlings grow up, they are treated with special preparations:

• The well-known 1% Bordeaux liquid;
• Chloroximedi solution of 4%. A bucket of water takes 4 g;
• Copper-soap solution is made from 2 g of copper sulfate, 300 g of liquid laundry soap and 10 liters of water;
• Dietan is prepared from 20 g per 10 liters of water;
• Kupsat 25-50 g per bucket of water.

After preparing a certain composition, it is necessary to spray the seedlings before planting in the ground. The next spraying should be carried out after 2 weeks. And the last spraying – when the fruits have just started to form.

Greenhouse disinfection

In order to effectively combat late blight and disinfect the greenhouse from late blight, you must first remove and burn all plant debris. The same should be done with ropes and pins, as they can retain spores of the parasite. Tools used in the greenhouse should be treated with copper sulfate in the proportion of 75 g per 10 liters. Water. The top layer of soil in the greenhouse every 3 years is better to be replaced with a new one.

To control phytosporosis in greenhouses, tobacco smoke bomb is used. 1 tobacco sample is designed for 35 square meters.

fungicides

When spring and summer are rich in rain, late miscus snake spreads faster, so seedlings need additional treatment. The treatment is repeated after 10 days. The solution is prepared at the rate of 1 l. 10 sq. m. Keep in mind that the Bordeaux liquid can be sprayed 10 days before harvesting, and other solutions – 20 days.

A good drug to combat late blotchiness is considered oxyhom, in which 1-2 tablets diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water. However, it must be sprayed every 10 days under the leaves, where the spores of Phytophthora are hidden. In addition, spraying in the greenhouse should be carried out in a fine stream, so that the liquid does not collect in droplets and does not roll off the leaves.

Fungicide Oxyhom Previcur Ridomil Gold

Ridomil Gold is made at the rate of 10 g per 4 liters of water. The first treatment after rooting plants after planting. The next treatment every 2 weeks. In general, it is recommended to carry out a 4-season treatment with Ridomil Gold.

Prevur energy is available in liquid form and diluted at the rate of 15 ml of solution per 10 liters of water. Judging by the reviews of gardeners, Energy is not only effective, but also safe for humans.

Profit Gold consists of two active components and quickly coordinates with the focus of phytophage infestation. Apply Profit Gold according to the instructions in the package. 1.5 g is used per 25 m².

Trichopol is a drug used to treat fungal diseases in humans, but is successfully used by gardeners to treat late blight of plants. Take 20 tablets per 10 liters. Water, dissolve and apply to the bushes every 10 days. Similar preparations for humans (iodine, boric acid, potassium peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, etc.) are widely used in horticulture. However, it should be remembered that trichopol is an antibiotic, and using it together with fruits that absorb the active substances can lead to the fact that a person will become addicted to this drug, and if necessary, it will not work. A cheaper analog is metronidazole. To prepare the composition, 20 metronidazole tablets are dissolved in 1 liter of water. Water, then the composition is added to 9 liters of liquid and stirred. As an alternative method, you can add green or iodine.

Biological preparations include Fitosporin, Gamair, Trichophyte.

How to fight with folk remedies

The use of folk remedies for the treatment of late defects is beneficial not only in the early stages or for the purpose of prevention, but also during the deterioration of the disease. However, treatment should be carried out regularly, every 10-12 days.

1. A solution of kefir or sour milk is a long-term method of controlling late blight. Initially, the milk must be sour. In 10 L. Add 1 L of water. Kefir is previously transferred to a dark, warm place.
2. FURATILIN is an effective antifungal, so it is used to control late blight. Crush 10 tablets of furatilin and dissolve it in hot water, then add the mixture to a bucket of water.
3. Contocin is a good plaque remedy. Dissolve 3 g in 10 l. Water and treat every 5 days. In total, you can spray three times.
4. Baking soda 1 tablespoon. l. dissolved in 4 liters. Water. The mixture is added to liquid laundry detergent and mixed well. Treat three times each week.
5. Iodine solution is made from 10 liters. Water of 40 drops of iodine and 30 g of potassium chloride. It is used regularly 2 weeks after planting, and then after 10 days.
6. Hydrogen peroxide solution is made as follows: 2 liters. Add 2 tablespoons. Hydrogen peroxide, stir and spray the tomatoes.
7. Yeast is rarely used for control, more as a top-up. The method is simple and gives good results. For 3 liters add 10 g of dry yeast and 5 tablespoons. Desert Sugar. Everything is mixed well and heated for 5 hours. After increasing the original volume is diluted in 7 liters. Water. The solution is poured under the bushes.

Advantages and disadvantages:

• Environmental friendliness;
• Availability of the components of the ingredients;
• Positive effect with parasitic disease after several treatments.

• Low effectiveness one after another;
• Creating a therapeutic mixture sometimes takes a long time.

Video reviews

Reviews Gärtnern

Alexander:

This is a complicated but still phytophthora disease that can be prescribed. I used Trichopo l-Funizid to treat my tomatoes. I had to tinker with it, as the photographer just didn’t want to go away. I worked the bushes, shoveled the soil and had fun gossiping in the ground. I even wanted to get some in the greenhouse, but then I changed my mind. I recommend everyone to use trichopol. In addition, it is universal and is used to combat the fungi of late rot, knotweed and buntweed.