How to properly cut grapes

How to properly cut grapes

Pruning is required to maintain a healthy vine and a bountiful grape harvest. This is a process that requires certain knowledge and skills. When to cut the plant. Ria Novosti, 08/12/2022 Camping of grapes in autumn for beginners videos

How to properly cut grapes

Pruning grapes in autumn and spring for beginners the main points in a simple and affordable language + video.

A short cut is used for varieties with good fertility of the lower eyes, with less developed shoots and in hig h-born and hig h-stemmed shrub forms. It is more effective when growing table grape varieties, since the grape quality is higher on a short cut than with a long cut. In addition, a short cut reduces the risk of overloading the bushes with drives and harvesting.

How to properly cut grapes

Pruning is required to maintain a healthy vine and a bountiful grape harvest. This is a process that requires certain knowledge and skills. When to cut the plant. Ria Novosti, 08/12/2022 Pruning grapes in autumn for beginners

How to properly cut grapes

Pruning grapes in autumn and spring for beginners the main points in a simple and affordable language + video.

How to properly cut grapes

Pruning is required to maintain a healthy vine and a bountiful grape harvest. This is a process that requires certain knowledge and skills. When to cut the plant. Ria Novosti, 08/12/2022

Moscow, August 4th – Ria Novosti. In order to obtain a healthy vine and a rich grape harvest, cut is required. This is a process that requires certain knowledge and skills. If you trim the system in spring, summer or autumn and how to do it properly, advice for gardeners can start – in the material of Ria Novosti. Cutting grapes can destroy the plant. To avoid this, you need to know the subtleties of this process. Why it is necessary to cut the grapes when and how it works, said Svetlana Pozdnikina, the agricultural technician of the “all varieties”. The grape cut is necessary for: “In view of their characteristics, grapes give a larger number of clusters and side dishes and give drives that are capable of food. In the absence of trimming, the extension of the vine and shredded berries is observed. “Start cutting the grape, paying attention to the variety, the climate. If you correctly cut off the grapes for beginners to carry out the trimming. The main rules for pruning grapes certain rules of the grape circumcision they know to know those who deal with the cultivation of this culture: the preparation of the bush to prepare it is necessary to prepare it, but Svetlana late Ikina recommends : The characteristics of pruning grape s-ste p-throug h-level s-cutting of the vine depend on the season. It is important to watch the deadlines in every season. In the event of a violation, it can be harmful to the system. A summer harvest is considered a summer harvest. Otherwise, all forces give the grapes growth. In addition, the excessive sealing shadow of the berries weakens the immunity of the vine. The characteristics of summer circumcision: According to the agricultural technician Svetlana Paradnikina, a systematic examination of grapes is required, the elimination of excess branches, wild growth that grows out of the root. The opinion of the gardeners is ambiguous, “says the expert. The problem is easy to avoid and does not make cuts towards the eye, but from it. From this. Degree fall, there is no night frost until the kidneys are bloated. First, they remove the vines that were created last season and let two to four fruit arrows. “If there are still many leaves on the plant, it will be artificially removed. Autumn circumcision is hygienic, dried leaves, old several years of shoots, incorrectly growing whip drives, damaged, damage withdrawn, with a thickness of up to seven mm, on which most eyes are the most. The total percentage of lon g-term income depends on their growth, but not more than 80%. “It is important to leave the right number of kidneys for fruit eyelashes from the next season. The vine is cut into living wood, the light has green shade on the cut. It should be up to two cm lively above the kidney “, Explains the specialist. Wintering performance takes place at the end of October and early November. At that time, the vine is brown on the average of the vine,

crackles easily when bending. If the autumn work has been missed, a sanitary cut can be carried out in the winter months (at a temperature of no less than minus three degrees). Otherwise the bush peels off in the cold, the plant does not tolerate frost. The winter cut is only carried out with a wel l-sharpened garden scissors without using a metal saw or a knife, which means that they cannot make a clean cut on a frozen vine nuances “in It is important to pay special attention to circumcision for the first years of a vineyard. This event is not only carried out for hygienic reasons, but also for the formation of fruit connections that have the shape of a bush. The procedure affects the future yield of the Vine, ”says Svetlana Pozdnikina. The rest must be removed. Two shoots grow from the left that are bound at different directions. In early autumn, after the leaf fall, the shoots are shortened. One remains briefly with two kidneys that other long with four kidneys. This process cannot be carried out beforehand, otherwise the grapes The second year of cultivation in the second cultivation year can be cut back in spring before the vegetation period begins. After the procedure, two shoots with three to five eyes should remain on the young shrub, in the autumn months two eyes left in the fruit arrow and the replacement node are cut. To do this, there is no more than three eyelets on the future knot, no more than 10 on the fruit tank. The rest is removed. Fruit arrows are bound horizontally on the lower wire of the trellis, so that the tips are in different directions. To form a vine, Svetlana Pozdnikina recommends: If you wish, you can leave more buds, but not more than 10. This means that you are insured against frost. “It is optimal to leave three buds of replacement nodes, six of fruit drives,” advises the expert. Methods for the formation of a bush There are two ways to form a grape bush, the choice depends on the climatic conditions. Plant does not have to be protected from frost. This enables you to increase the yield by 40% if you put the ovary buds closer to the shoots. In addition, the vine is based on this type of formation of care for plant formation: after three years, stepchildren grow up from which an Obststrein arises. You will also be bound by a trellis. The stubble option is suitable for regions with a cold climate in which the grapes have to be covered for winter. With this type of formation you get a limited number of sleeves, from two to five that extend to the sides, with different lengths. Rejuvenate. For this purpose, a stem is at a height of 35 to 50 cm away, “This reduces the load and forms sleeves from the young shoots. A drive remains on the vine, where a fruit connection will form in the future and chooses a whip with a thickness of seven to nine mm, with about three or four buds staying on it, a replacement node, ”explains Svetlana Pozdnikina. The expert notes that the rejuvenation of the old vine is reduced by 50% in the first year of rejuvenation of the old vine

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on the second – up to 70%. In the third year, a full-fledged bush is formed, returning to the standard load. When a total rejuvenation is performed, it is important to work on skeletal renewal. On grafted vines – at the expense of fattening shoots, on their own roots – at the expense of coppice If grapes cannot be pruned Any shoots are not removed by: Care after pruning Pruning usually does not cause any additional stress for the grapes. Subsequent care for the vine consists of the following basic measures: to prevent infestation of the grapes with pests, to protect them from diseases, it can be treated with fungicides, which, provided that they persist until the formation of leaf buds shoots appear, does not require one intervention. With prolonged “weeping”, which lasts more than a month and can lead to a loss of nutrients, simple measures are required: natural weeping indicates that the plant has woken up and safely wintered, which Svetlana Pozdnikina talked about short growing season. Spring pruning is not carried out in this area, since sudden frosts will lead to the death of the plant. Sanitary treatment and the formation of a bush occurs only in the fall Crimea In the Crimea, bushes are formed in early autumn, before the start of sap flow, to prevent active “weeping”. Do not rush pruning in the fall. Hygienic removal of eyelashes is carried out while forming them into a fruiting band.UralUral is characterized by unstable and short summers. In this regard, it is not recommended to prune the grapes in the first two years. This time is necessary to strengthen the root system and grow the vine, the length of which should be at least a meter by the time of the first pruning. “If there are grapes in the garden, you need to master the nuances of pruning. This way you will get a healthy plant, which will thank the grower with a bountiful harvest and delicious berries “, – concluded Svetlana Pozdnikina.

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grape cut

Author : VinogradMinsk | December 14, 2019 | Comments (2) | 12106


Grapes are the most plastic plants of all perennial fruit crops. This property allows you to give the bushes any size and shape by pruning and shaping. With proper pruning and shaping, grape bushes can grow evenly and produce a good harvest of very high quality.

Pruning grapes for what it takes

Pruning grapes is a necessary technique for caring for a plant. Grapes bear fruit only on the current year’s shoots, which develop from the eyes of last year’s vines. Rarely, small yields of shoots growing from dormant buds on perennial wood are produced in some strains. Therefore, a one-year-old vine is left to fruit, which is on a two-year-old wood.

All shrubs are pruned annually regardless of their age. The essence of pruning is to remove or shorten individual shoots and older parts of the crown of shrubs. Without pruning or with weak pruning, the shrubs take on a wild appearance and bear fruit irregularly. At the same time, they get a lot of bunches, but they are all small, with small and poor-quality berries.

short cut

The goals and goals of pruning are not the same depending on the age of the bush. When cutting young bushes, his task is to create the shape of a bush with the formation of a skeletal, permanent part – a tribe or tribe and its main branches in the form of a sleeve, shoulders, with horns, knots and fruits. Cutting young shrubs is nothing more than the formation of grapes. The vines for the harvest next year remain in the case of crucial adult shrubs, keep the chosen shrub formation and regularly renew the aged parts of the crown.

It should be remembered that every cut weakens the bush. Excessive circumcision of young plants inhibits growth and delays the start of fruit formation. Without or with extremely weak cut, it is impossible to achieve a hig h-quality grape harvest. The fewer shoots remain on the shrub, the stronger each drove grows. However, the growth of the entire shrub and its ability to wear fruits decreases with a decreasing number of shoots.

Cutting and shaping and forms of shrubs are easier and more understandable to carry out or spail for grapes.

When cut grapes

The cut takes place during the rest period of the vine. In the southern regions, where the bushes are not damaged by winter frosts, they are trimmed in autumn in winter and spring before the juice flow begins; In areas with protected viticulture – in autumn, before the grapes are (temporarily) protected for winter, and in spring after their opening (final), ie in two steps.

The autumn cut is carried out after the leaves have fallen off or die from the first autumn frosts. In places where the frost comes early, you shouldn’t wait for the leaf fall. If the time for the shelter of the shrubs has come and a frost period threatens, the vine can be covered with leaves. At the same time, all of the obviously unnecessary parts are removed – the immature vine and its parts, underdeveloped shoots, stepchildren and antennas, the fructose is shortened so that a large supply of eyes remains.

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In spring, after opening the bushes and unveiled the results of your winter, carry out the final cut: remove or shorten the broken, fros t-damaged or dry vines, reduce the shoots that are left for replacement and recovery nodes You the sleeves or rejuvenation of the old parts of the crown.

In the short cut, four on e-year tendrils (fruit arrows) are left on a wel l-developed shrub. The total load of the eyes should not exceed 30-32 eyes. In addition to the fruit arrows, four more replacement nodes should remain, 2 eyes each. With all types of cutting, it must be ensured that the replacement branches are as close as possible to the bush.

The autumn and winter cut promotes the earlier blooming of the eyes, and the late spring cut leads to a certain delay in the start of growth. Therefore, it is recommended to cut closer to the moment where the eyes open at a later date when the eyes open.

Young vines of all layers are best cut in spring.

A short pruning can be carried out in all rich varieties. The greater the grapes of the variety should be cut the shorter.

What are replacement sluts

With a high pulp of the grape bush, especially the boys (3-5 years), a long cut should never be used, otherwise the bushes are very exhausted.

The substitution node is part of an old European cut system that was discovered and distributed by the French scientist and winegrowers Jules Guyot in the mi d-19th century. This cut system is almost nowhere to be found, but the essentials are that a knot remains directly under the fruit arrow, on the replacement drive.

In autumn, the entire fruit part is cut into a knot. And the two vines of the knot turn back into an arrow and a knot.

The importance of the replacement node is to guarantee strong and wel l-mature vines in order to bear and replace fruit next year.

The disadvantage is at least two additional idle outbreaks.

Basic rules for pruning an adult bush

The correct cut includes a careful selection of the shoots for fruit formation and the selection of the most valuable eyes on the Obststrein. In most cases, fruit members are formed annually when pruning shrubs, which consist of a replacement node and one or two fruit tendrations, the fruit tanks are referred to as the fruit arrow.

Average cropping

Obstlink with a bitch of the replacement

The fruit connection should be formed in such a way that the substitution node is always under the fruit arrow. This is the fundamental rule of circumcision that results from the biological characteristic of the vine. With this formation of the fruit connection, the position of the wounds is optimized during trimming, the possibility of cutting is eliminated and the process of trimming the bush is facilitated.

It differs from the fact that they leave a larger number of eyes up to 40-45 during the autumn average, since annual orchards are longer than 8-9 eyes as well as 7-8 kidneys and four bitches of substitutions after two kidneys . At the same time, it should be taken into account that the most important thing is the number of clusters on the bush (40-45 STCs), and the number of obtrees can be more than 3-4 STCs. The optimal number of eyes on the fruit arrow is 5-6 PCs. Therefore, it is better to leave 6-7 fruit shooters with 6-7 eyes than 4 arrows of 10-12 eyes.

No more than three wel l-developed shoots should be grown on the bitch. At the same time, it is very important that the lower escape is on the outside and the upper is from the inner side. This placement of shoots on knots leads to a on e-sided position of the wounds on the inside of the sleeve, the shoulder and other lon g-standing parts of the bush. This is achieved in this case when a lower, usually developed eye remains on a bitch from outside when cutting. When the lower eye is on the inside of the bitch, it is removed and the escape is cut higher.

With the annual cut in the fruit connection, the tending tolerant arrow is removed together with the shoots, and the new link is created from the shots developed on the bitch. In this case, the lower shot that takes an outer position is cut briefly on a knot with two or three eyes and the upper on the fruit arrow.

What to do if there is no shoots on the bitch or they are weak

It is particularly undesirable to leave long vines (more than 8 eyes) on varieties with mediu m-sized and small clusters.

In practice, there are often cases in which only an escape has developed for various reasons or did not develop at all.

If there is no single shoot on the bitch, it will be removed and the fruit arrow remains. This is briefly cut to the knot from the outside, and one of the following shoots that developed the farthest is shortened on the fruit arrow. All other shootings on last year’s shooters are removed.

In the case in which only one escape on the bitch developed, depending on the placement, either briefly cut on the knot or long on the fruit arrow. If the escape takes an external position, it is briefly cut to a substitution bitch and to form an arrow, the best escape in the development of an arrow is used.

When developing a bitch, only an upper turn is cut out of the intrapened eye, and only a reserve is left over the arrow of last year, wel l-developed escape. The escape to the bitch is bound with a curve and leaves two eyes under the curve, from which the lower one should take an outer position. Behind the curve in the horizontal part of the bound instinct, four to eight wel l-developed eyes remain. With such a cut and a tight tape, a fruit connection will be restored in the course of the year. The lef t-wing reserve escape is sometimes used as an additional fruit arrow.

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Long cut

Cut the grapes with an improved fruit connections and a bitch of the replacement

Long cut is used for rapidly growing and dampening varieties. This usually applies to technical varieties.

If it is necessary to increase the load of the bush with your eyes in the fruit connection above the substitution, two fruit arrows remain. In this case, the arrow of the lower fruit should be shorter by two to three eyes of the upper orchard. On the vines when cutting, stepshons and antennas are removed.

Grape trim without a replacement bitch

You can also cut grapes without using a substitution bitch. For beginners grapes, it is very difficult to understand the fruit connection with a replacement bitch. This is normal, everything comes with experience, but you should not get into despair, the substitution sluts are not necessary at all, the grapes are perfectly shaped. , cutting and perfect fruit without a bitch of the replacement.

The catastrophic lack of space on the site also forces to abandon the spare knot when the bushes are densely planted and the space on the trellis is extremely limited. In this case, the shoots on the replacement knot steal space for the fruit shoots. and many are forced to refuse replacement nodes.

The essence of the method is very simple, we do everything the same, only forget about the spare nodes and choose the fruit arrow from the fruit shoots. The fruit shoot for the next year should be as close as possible to the head of the bush.

Also, when cutting without a spare knot, remember that the wounds should be on one side of the sleeve.

This method also has disadvantages, since the pod elongates much faster and has to be replaced regularly, forming a new pod from a coppice shoot growing from the head of a bush.

Reinforced fruit link with no spare knot

It is also possible to cut grapes with a reinforced fruit link without leaving a spare knot. When using a reinforced fruiting compound, try to leave about the same number of fertile shoots on each fruiting arrow when breaking green shoots in spring.

Pruning a reinforced fruit link without a replacement knot.

bush rejuvenation

Over the years, the perennial parts of the crown of the bush – sleeves, shoulders, trunks and horns, lengthen, become covered with a variety of wounds and age. All this leads to a weakening of the growth of shoots and fruiting of the bush, and even the death of individual parts. At the base and on perennial wood, especially near wounds, dormant buds and shoots begin to develop intensively. Such bushings must be completely replaced or rejuvenated by the obsolete part of the crown.

To rejuvenate the sleeve, trunk and other perennial parts of the crown of the bush, when breaking the green shoots, a shoot is left closer to the base of the tapered part. As the shoot grows, it is tied vertically to encourage good development and maturation. In the second year, the coppice shoot is pruned to a restoration knot (stand) and only the best shoots are left on the pod for fruiting.

The outdated sleeve is removed no earlier than the second year of life of the recovery knot, when its thickness reaches at least half the thickness of the tapered part of the trunk or sleeve. When removing the part to be replaced above the knot, a stump of 2-3 cm remains, the upper cut of which is cleaned with a garden knife. In order not to weaken the bush with large wounds, it is advisable to gradually rejuvenate the sleeves – no more than one a year.

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trimming technique

To trim, use well-sharpened secateurs, a hacksaw file, and a garden knife. Cuts should be made in such a way that the cut wounds are on one, preferably the inside, of the perennial parts. Opposite wounds (cuts) are especially dangerous, since dead tissue on both sides prevents the movement of nutrients and water in the plant. The cut is made perpendicular to the axis of the shoot, in this case the wound is small. Straight cuts should also be made when removing the fruiting vine, excess pods and other obsolete perennial parts of the bush canopy.

Annual shoots to be removed are cut off at the very base without damaging the old wood. Unnecessary and obsolete perennial parts of the bushes are cut off at their base, leaving a hemp 0.5 cm high.Large wounds caused by a file are cleaned with a garden knife. When removing coppice shoots, it is necessary to open the underground trunk to the point where the shoot comes out.

If you cut thick parts of the crown, press it with your left hand slightly from the scissor blade or the saw blade.

On e-yea r-old shoots are shortened by a knot that is located an internal code above the remaining part of the shoot, although the eye on it is removed. Such a cut ensures the normal development of the eye below and protects the remaining part – the escape of water and pests that penetrate into the core. If the drive is not shortened by the knot, the cuts are made slightly diagonally in the opposite direction from the eye and 2-3 cm above it. In this way it can be avoided that when crying, the upper eye is wetted with the flowing juice.

In order to properly carry out a cut, when working with a garden scissors, the cutting blade should be turned onto the left part and the piston onto the distant part. A grape file should be about 20 cm long, a smooth, slightly curved blade, like a braid, and have a slightly curved handle. The teeth of the saw must be well sharpened and correctly set, it is necessary to cut with such a saw.

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Cutting length

Depending on the number of eyes remaining on the fruit stick, the cut is divided into short (2-3 eyes), medium (5-7), long (8-10) and very long (10-15 or more eyes).

The cutting length depends heavily on the grape variety, with most varieties the most fertile eyes are in the middle part of last year’s drive and less profitable on the base and especially in the corners. Some varieties of the new selection have a high fertility of the shoots that develop from last year’s lower eyes.

The fertility of the eyes and the truture yield depend on the growth strength of the vine and the shape of the bush. With the same variety on a stronger vine, the fertility of the eyes increases when they move away from the base, while with less developed ones they are closer to the base of the vine. With strong driving growth, a long pruning should take place in almost all grape varieties. With the height of the stems, the fertility of the lower eyes increases. Due to the different nature of the eyes on the vine, the mixed cut is widespread in practice, whereby branches and fruit ranks remain different in the same time. With this cutting method, the main task of the nodes is to prepare the shoots for the harvest next year and the fruit arrows or whip for harvest this year. The mixed cut is called cut per fruit connection.

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