How to take care of trees and bushes in autumn
In autumn all gardeners gather the fruits of their labor and, of course, worry about the plantings: how they will take root and whether there will be a harvest next season.
So that fruit and berry crops each year pleased with a rich harvest, we will tell you how you can take care of trees and shrubs in the fall. What work needs to be done, and what can be safely postponed until spring.
Recharge the floor with moisture.
Many beginners, and some experienced gardeners have never heard of moisture watering and have no idea why fruit plants are flooded in the fall. Explanation:
– Elastic, moisture-soaked branches are less likely to break under snow and freezing rain;
– Active suction root growth and nutrient storage for the winter continues into November, but as long as the soil is sufficiently moist;
– Well-moistened soil retains heat longer, freezes and thaws, so the root system suffers less from winter temperature fluctuations.
Moisturizing irrigation is not necessary if the summer and fall have been rainy and the trenches and ponds are filled with hearths. Well, if there were periods of high humidity, you need to pour 4-6 buckets of water under young trees and berry bushes, and under mature fruit trees – up to 10-15 buckets per crown width.
Take care of the future berry harvest
Now let’s talk about how to take care of berry bushes in the fall. Unlike fruit trees, pruning at the end of the season is really necessary, especially currants and gooseberries, which very quickly build up new shoots.
How to properly carry out sanitary and rejuvenation pruning of bushes:
– Prune the branches after the leaves fall off;
– Use high-quality gardening tools such as pricks and pliers;
– Remove withered, weak, old, greasy shoots and prostrates;
– Mature branches of currants and gooseberries should be shortened by a third.
Raspberries and blackberries are better trimmed in the spring, and in the fall you can cut too high priors to increase the number of lateral buds.
Blueberries are trimmed from the age of 6 years, for which they are slightly thinned in the middle of the bush and the lower branches of sprawling bushes are removed. From 8 years of age, hooked leaves are trimmed in the fall, that is, the aging branches are removed to grow replacement discs.
Frost sheltering, lightly under-wintering e-Thrips
Since shrubs must be fully cared for in the fall, make it a rule that they are at their strongest for winter, e.g:
– roses of all kinds and varieties;
– Grapes (with the exception of a number of permanent varieties);
– Hydrangeas (primarily large-leafed ones);
– Rhododendrons, lilies, phlox, peony;
– Young seedlings of raspberries, blackberries;
– Juniper, spruce, fir, and other ornamental conifers for protection from scorch.
Spruce, reed or straw can be used as a covering material, but there is a risk of rotting and there is no guarantee that the plants have not become ill. Therefore, it is better to use non-woven covering materials and folding frames for placement with air drying.
Protect trees from frost
In winter, the tension in the bark of fruit trees is so great that it literally bursts. This phenomenon is called frostbite. In spring the tree heals with active growth of the cambium itself, and the crack heals up, but because of the big difference in tissue density frostbite will appear in the same place next winter.
This cannot go on indefinitely, and if no action is taken, there will be one of two results. At best, the frostbite ridge at the site of the injury increases and fungus spores get on the wound, the tree begins to rot and dies.
Many cases in the orchard can be prevented, including bark frostbite. The best protection for apple, pear, plum or cherry trees from frost is fall whitewashing.
What work can be done or postponed until spring
Consider your time and energy before caring for trees and shrubs in the fall, especially when it’s time to go out of town before spring.
Let’s summarize what needs to be done before the steady cold weather arrives:
– Pruning berry shrubs;
– Protection of bushes and young seedlings of fruit trees;
If you conscientiously perform these works, you will be able to sleep peacefully during the winter and not really worry about the fountain of your favorite garden.
But at the end, you can still mention activities that can go into the fall or into the spring:
– While berry bushes are fed in the spring and after harvest, you don’t have to do it in the fall;
-under fruit trees, you can add phosphorus-potassium fertilizer if you have not done so in the spring.
– Spraying plants against diseases and pests is necessary only if the plants are severely damaged by them.
– Mulch the soil around shrubs and trees should only be done after digging or when the soil is severely limp, which happens when feeding or dipping, before the roots are exposed.
Now you know how to care for berry bushes and fruit trees in the fall. A simple job will take only a few days and will be the key to a future bountiful harvest.
When and how to spray trees in autumn
As already stated, the autumn season is not the time to relax for the real gardener. Even if all the harvest is already harvested and processed, there are still a lot of things to do at the dacha. Today we will talk more about caring for the orchard.
Autumn hard work in the garden, as you already know, consists of wetting and completing the feeding of fruit trees and berry bushes, pruning, cleaning, if necessary, from moss and scythe (at the same time remove the nests of wintering from the boles), whitewashing, cleaning leaves.
It’s time to prepare the garden for the coming winter. Read in our article, how to care for fruit trees in the fall.
And after all of the above – in the obligatory treatment of trees against diseases and pests. After all, before the beginning of the real cold weather, it is in their cracks, urges or knocked out in the spores and prepares for the spring to prepare, “wake up”, go out and put their harmful asset Forth. Florists, gypsy silkworm, goosefoot, sawfly, trout beetle, drevotochets, bastards, vectors, scales, bark beetles, hawthorns, goldenrod, pathogenic fungi and bacteria – the number of organisms harmful to the trees themselves or nearby can, or nearby bacteria. is very high.
If some of these pests can be dealt with by thorough cleaning of the rootstock circles from fallen leaves and deep autumn digging of the soil, when the pests fall to the surface and eventually freeze, then what to do with those who have prepared for a comfortable wintering on the trees themselves and prevent possible subsequent infection of plants by pathogens? Of course – to treat garden plants. But when exactly and with what exactly? Let’s find out together.
To combat diseases and pests in the region in the fall, solutions of copper or iron sulfate, Bordeaux, as well as industrial fundicides and autumn insecticides are used. With these means, waiting for all the leaves of trees and shrubs to fall, abundantly spray their crowns, as well as trunk rings. If your garden was severely affected by diseases and pests in the summer, it is better to start treatment, not until the end of the leaf fall (but necessarily after the harvest!).
The more thoroughly you carry out this procedure in autumn, the less worries you will have in spring. You will still have to treat at the beginning of the next season, but the effect will be much greater thanks to the autumn measures.
Note that biological preparations (Bitoxybacillin, Phytosporin, Trichocin, Sporobacterin, etc.) work only at stable temperatures above 8-10 °C, so do not use them for late-autumn treatments.
Any spraying of trees against diseases and pests is carried out on a low-salt day, in dry windless weather and with observance of all safety precautions – in specially designed clothing, rubber bibs, gloves and a respirator.
Read more about spraying garden plants below.
How to treat your garden with insecticides in the fall
If during the season your trees suffered from pests, in the fall after the fall of leaves, carry out fertilization with broad-spectrum insecticides (Aliot, Aktara, Inta-vir, Fufanon Nova, Spark Gold, Komandor, Alatar, Hald, Hald, Hald, Hald, Hald, Hald, Hald, Hald and others), spreading the preparation according to instructions.
During treatment, the thermometer should not hit negative marks, as most of these preparations work at a temperature of at least 5 ° C.
Leaf fall ends in autumn – and it is time for the last treatment of the garden against pests in the season. What can I spray trees with at this time?
How to treat the garden with fungicides in autumn
Preventive treatment of the garden with fungicides can be carried out a little later, but also before the onset of frost. Use one of the following preparations based on copper: HOM, Oksihom, Ordan, Abiga-Pik or industrial products based on other active ingredients (diphenoconazole, epoxiconazole, propiconazole): Discor, Cancer, Winkel, Prognoz, Skorus, Agro-Choice.
Before application, thoroughly dissolve all preparations in water according to the instructions, and during the procedure, make sure that the solution gets not only on the crown and trunk of the tree, but also in the basal area, since spores from fungal pathogens can appear there.
As prevention from some diseases of trees and shrubs, lilac spotting or a free solution of urea (urea), for example, will work fine. For the preparation of 500-700 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed plants after the fall of all leaves, but until the end of October. Such a treatment will not only protect the garden from diseases in the next year, but also provide soil.
What are the most common diseases of garden trees and shrubs and what measures should be taken to treat them? We have gathered all the information for you.
How to treat a garden in autumn with iron sulfate
This preparation is iron sulfate, which gardeners use when treating trees and shrubs from gouges, mildew, gray and fruit mold and many other fungal diseases. In addition, iron sulfate is an effective micro – remedy for the treatment and prevention of iron deficiency in the soil (chlorosis). A 3-5% iron sulfate solution is applied in the fall using leaf litter.
In the spring, treatment with iron sulfate delays plant awakening by delaying the buds, which is more of a disadvantage than an advantage. In addition, iron sulfate can leave burns on new shoots and young leaves, so you have to be careful with the recommended concentrations. For these reasons, iron sulfate is better used in the fall. And in the spring, choose preparations containing copper sulfate, burgundy mixture, oxychrome, etc.
The powder is diluted in water according to the instructions, and garden plants (cherry, apricot, cherry) with 3% solution of iron sulfate (300 g of the substance per 10 liters of water) and seed plants (apple, pear) -5% (500 g per 10 liters of water).
Iron sulfate must not be used simultaneously with copper sulfate or preparations containing lime (Bordeaux fluid).
Iron sulfate is one of the most popular fungicides. Learn how you can use it to avoid ruining your garden.
How to treat a garden in the fall with copper sulfate
This compound (copper sulfate, couzo4 or copper sulfate) is a very popular and effective antiseptic and contact fungicide. Copper sulfate in the form of water-soluble powder is produced and used most often as part of bordeaux fluid (see below), although it can also be used alone.
When used properly, copper sulfate effectively destroys fungi, their mycelium and spores (steam, lodges (communities), moniliosis, mold, spots, rot) without causing harmful object resistance. This is undoubtedly because it has no accumulative capacity, there are no side and/or long-term negative effects. Treatment with copper sulfate promotes the inclusion of copper on plant organs (micromycetes) and prevents the development of chlorosis.
A 3% solution of the drug (300 g per 10 liters of water) is used for autumn spraying of trees and shrubs, although sometimes a weaker dosage of 1% per 10 for the youngest plants with thin bark) is used. Powder is diluted in an enamel bowl with very warm water and stirred constantly. The working solution is cooled, stirred and start treating the plants, using 2-5 liters per tree and 1-1.5 liters per bush.
Strictly follow the norms of the solution for the plant and remember that medicines in common solutions with phosphorus-mustard insecticides and other drugs that decompose in an alkaline environment are not compatible.
To disinfect the floor in regular circles, a 3-4% solution of copper sulfate is sprayed evenly on the surface of the floor, in accordance with which the ground is dug up. It is recommended to carry out such treatment every 3-5 years with the obligatory introduction of compost or humus.
Copper sulfate – instructions for use, fungicidal action. Safety precautions for copper sulfate, compatibility.
How to treat the garden with Burgundy red liquid in autumn
Bordeaux liquid is a universal fungicide with which the garden is protected against September blight, stonefly, moniliosis, stock, mildew, columnar rust and other frequent diseases. The classic recipe of the preparation assumes the presence of two components – copper sulfate and quicklime, in which calcium compounds neutralize the negative effects of copper to an acceptable level, if you suddenly accidentally exceed the recommended dose.
A 3% solution of the drug is used exclusively for autumn treatment of trees in the garden. Spraying is carried out, as in all the above cases, after complete removal of leaves.
Autumn is a great time to take care of the health of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden. Proper treatment against diseases and pests gives confidence in the productivity of the next season.
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