Autumn planting of trees and shrubs: About the subtleties and nuances
Autumn planting of trees and shrubs has their own details. Especially in the central strip of Russia. If you ignore this specificity, you can cause many problems. Today we remind you of several important rules for the growth and plants of trees and bushes, which avoids typical autumn errors.
The first rule. Not all trees and shrubs should be planted in autumn
There are three important reasons why you cannot plant trees with bare roots in autumn: 1) If you are badly tolerated due to your biological properties. 2) If these varieties or plant species have a problem with the winter hardness in our climate. 3) If the trees are grown in other climate zones and we don’t have a single winter in winter.
In the first case, we mainly talk about deciduous trees with a bar and the root system below – birch, oak, chestnuts, nuts, velvet. And also about such a shrub as Hawthorn. The transplant with mere roots is very bad to be tolerated and all needles with the exception of larch.
As for winter hardness. Here trees such as chestnuts and almost all fruits fall into the risk zone. With the exception of the perhaps winter varieties of apple trees. After all, we do not recommend planting types and varieties of trees that are brought from Europe with bare roots, especially in autumn. A plant that has lost a significant part of the roots may not master the reconfiguration to other biological rhythms. Container plants – Whether they are trees or shrubs that are leaves or needle bands can plant in autumn. But one: If the tree is in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already grown out the volume proposed to them and have gone to Twist rings, the plant can beat bad roots. The roots in a twisted state cannot work with full performance immediately. It is better not to buy such a work for plants in autumn. Trees and shrubs with lump of earth are transplanted in autumn like containers. But the condition of the coma must be examined very meticulously. When a lump is crushed, the earth has collapsed, they already have to do with bare roots, only with diluted soil. This can be fatal in all cases listed above for bare roots. In general, the lump should be treated extremely carefully and tried not to hurt it again. If the lump is packed on the net – metal or thread or in sack linen – do not try to get rid of them. This type of packaging consists of materials that disassemble in the ground and the growth of roots will not harm at all.
The second rule. With the autumn planting of trees and bushes, you have to make sure that plant growth ended this season
Active vegetation is complete when the top buds are formed and the shoots are wooden over the entire length. Otherwise, the tree will definitely freeze when it goes into winter before the end of the vegetation period. When buying imported plants, you should be particularly careful. And also in the event that summer failed very dry and it only rained in August. Plants from other climate zones that have just been brought to Russia may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years a stormy vegetation can only be used very late, only with Augustrangs. Both in the first and the second case, we receive trees that are not yet ready for winter at the beginning of the planting season.
Rule three. Do not delay with the time of planting trees and shrubs
It is believed that trees and shrubs with an open root system should be planted in our climate zone before October 10th. After all, the seedlings still have to have time to beat young roots in a new place. If the tree has time to form new roots in unknown soil, its root system begins to work with full capacity and the plant will survive all the hardships of the winter much more easily. This rule is particularly relevant for trees and shrubs that are difficult to root (see rule one). Of course, the time for planting trees and shrubs can shift somewhat depending on the weather. In the past unusually warm winters, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until early December. But of course that was too great. Again, when we talk about October 10th, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital searches for container plants were simply not carried out in Russia, since the latter only appeared in the last era of starting imports. But we believe that it is not worth going out with containers too far from October 10th.
In the picture on the left: a wel l-mature drift of the bird cherry “Schubert”; On the right – an immature drive of the same bird cherry.
The fourth is very important! – Rule. Do not overdo it with fertilizer in autumn!
When planting in autumn, only phosphorus fertilizers may be applied to the planting pit. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is harmless to the plant in high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentrations (and if fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration of it) will not only stimulate the growth of new roots, on the contrary, they seriously impair the existing root system. These additives introduced in autumn can simply harm the transplanted plant. Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted) nor lime should be added for planting in autumn. They can be manufactured in advance for general soil preparation in spring. The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant are root formation stimulants: root and humat. The preparations are diluted with water and applied in the quantities specified by the manufacturer on the packaging during irrigation.
Last rule. If you plant trees and shrubs in autumn, don’t forget a number of measures to help the plant survive the winter hardening.
We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the stem from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from snow flow. Mulching with all kinds of organic materials – peat, chopped from bark, sawdust, straw – saves roots from frost and helps maintain moisture in the soil. After isolating the roots, think about fighting mice. After all, organic mulch, especially straw, sawdust, bark, will greatly attract them. Be sure to protect fruit trees as well as ornamental varieties of apple trees, runoff, and pears. But we would generally advise all newly planted trees to protect against mice if such an opportunity arises. For example, I’ve had to see mice using the cambium even on ash and Chinese poplars. In fact, the protection itself is sold in the store. This is such a thin plastic spiral mesh worn on a stick. If you have a problem with bunnies on your site, then similar protection against them should also be purchased. But from sunburn the tree should be saved with white washes. It is best to use water base. Preferably particular garden. If the broader doesn’t have a fungicide in it, it would be nice to add it. This also protects the tree from pests. In late February, whitewashing won’t hurt as fall washes them away. The garter to support a tree planted in winter (like a tree planted in spring) is required! The tree should by no means sway in the wind and set the root system in motion. In this case, rooting is problematic. If the tree is small, two supports will suffice. An adult plant needs a stretching system, and finally, do not forget to protect the crown from snow flow, tying it with a string. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar shape of the crown – for all those whose branches depart from the barrel at an acute angle. And twice relevant for conifers with a similar shape of the crown – juniper, thui, cypress. Shrubs also won’t hurt to protect against snow flow. Successful landings!
Tips for spring landing. How to plant trees and shrubs in spring?
Gardeners often have strong doubts about which season is better for planting plants, but the answer to this question is very ambiguous. Some trees and shrubs do better when planted in spring. In many ways, spring is truly considered a prosperous season for planting trees and shrubs. What trees and shrubs to plant in the spring and how to do it right, read this article.
Tips for spring landing. How to plant trees and shrubs in spring?
Which trees are preferable in spring?
Spring is the period when most summer residents, in any case, are actively engaged in gardening: breaking and sowing the beds, dividing and planting perennials, crossing the lawn. In garden centers and nurseries at this time there are full of shrubs and trees.
Most new gardens are laid in spring. The main reason for this is that gardeners look forward to reaching the site after a long winter.
Almost every tree reacts well when it is planted in spring and some trees have to be planted in spring. For example trees with thick fleshy roots. It is better to plant it in the ground because this type of root system does not quickly adapt to a transplant. You need a lot of time before winter comes so that you have time to calm down completely. It is better if you have long warm summer days available to get used to the new place. This category includes plants such as magnolia, oaks, hard drainers and lilio ends.
Magnolia oak © Blogspot Hartriegel
Spring planting is also preferred for wid e-leaved evergreen shrubs. These evergreen plants (boxwood, rhododendron, sting palm and others) lose all winter through their leaves, which makes them particularly susceptible to winter damage, so they have to be given more time to establish themselves.
Spring planting is also preferable for wid e-leaved evergreen bushes.
Slowly growing tree species need roots throughout the season before the ground freezes, precisely because they are slowly growing.
Coniferee trees such as pine, spruce, fir, larch and others are best planted from early to late spring, ie from April to early June. If possible, waiting for cloudy or rainy weather. This further reduces the stress for the plant.
Suppal seedlings © Fast-Box larch seeters © flower’s-hers petrol seedlings © Groound
Advantages and disadvantages of planting trees in spring
Advantages of spring planting:
More time to adapt. An early start gives the tree an early start to the vegetation period. The plant can then spend summer and autumn to adapt and form a root system before the cold weather begins.
Large selection. In spring, nurseries and garden centers tend to have the largest selection of plant species and types.
Weather. For many gardeners, spring is the best time due to the weather to plant trees. The temperature rises, the floor is still cool (which is good for root growth) and it often rains.
Disadvantages of planting trees in spring:
Unpredictable weather. The weather is one of the reasons why it is good to plant trees in spring. However, problems can also occur due to the weather when planting a tree or shrub. Spring weather can be unpredictable. Late snowfalls, persistent rains or early heat can make it difficult for the plant to adjust.
Irrigation. Trees that are planted in spring form both roots and leaves in the first year. This requires a lot of water, especially in the transition period from spring in the summer. If you live in an area with hot, dry summers, plant your plants in early spring as soon as the floor can be edited. The planting must be completed at the latest one month before the start of the heat.
Features of spring planting
Gardeners who want to plant trees and shrubs this spring have a time window from April 20 to May 20, when the soil is processed and the temperature for planting new plants is favorable.
Plants with bare roots (BCS)
Rooted plants (open root systems) such as fruit trees, berry bushes and roses are usually planted in early spring when they still rest and start to threshold before their buds.
Ideally, rooted plants should be planted on the same day on which they were bought. However, this is not always possible and often they have to be stored until planting. Careful storage of the seedling is the key to success for its further survival. In rooted plants, the entire earth is washed from the roots according to the excavation, and since they lack a rooting medium that supplies the plant with water, they must be kept inactive. This means that at a temperature slightly above or below zero and with high humidity (95 %). However, do not allow negative temperatures.
When rooted plants are brought out of the nursery, their roots are usually wrapped in damp peat moss, sound, peat or other material. Then the plants are placed in a plastic bag and packed in a box.
Examine the seedlings after receipt to ensure that you are healthy and undamaged and the packaging material is damp. If necessary, moisten the root system again and then store the plants in your packaging at low temperatures if you are not yet ready for planting. Immediately before planting, it makes sense to moisten the plants again by soaking them in a bucket with clear water or cornevin solution for a few hours, but never let plants with roots in the water overnight.
The basic rule for planting seedlings with an open root system in spring is that such plants are planted in front of the bud break. After the leaves blooms, the plants actively evaporate moisture, and the root system in the idle state cannot compensate for this loss. Such a seedling can even die and its survival becomes easier.
Open root system in roses
Seedlings in containers (ZKS)
Container plants have a longer time window in which they can be successfully planted early in the season from around April to the end of June. They can also be planted in midsummer, but it is better not to do this in extreme heat. To minimize the stress for the plants, try to plant them on a calm or cloudy day and pour them regularly for the first time after planting.
Be careful with hea t-loving plants that previously stood in a greenhouse when you plant them. It is best to plant them only when the risk of strong frost is over. If the plant is already planted, you may have to provide protection if strict frosts are predicted to avoid damage to the leaves.
Container plants have a longer time window in which they can be successfully planted early in the season from around April to the end of June.
Tips for planting spring trees
Your plants thrive best when they are planted in spring when the soil heats up well. You can accelerate this process. For this purpose, if available, mulch is removed from the planting site ten days before planting. This gives the ground space to absorb the warmth of the spring sun. If there is no mulch, cover the future landing site with plastic film (black or transparent) and press the edges well. Such a measure also contributes to the heating of the soil.
Saturated spring soil is great for plants that are already in the ground, but is not suitable for planting. Wait until the soil is slightly dry and workable before planting anything. When this happens, you end up with compacted soil that makes it difficult for the roots to absorb air, water, and nutrients. If you squeeze a handful of soil and it sticks together into a lump, it’s too wet to plant. The soil, forming a crumbly lump, is ready.
When digging a planting hole for a tree or shrub, try to make it three times the size and twice the depth of the root ball. Immediately after planting, water the seedling deeply, which will also eliminate air pockets around the roots, that is, establish contact between the roots and the soil. Add a good deep layer of mulch after planting to protect the roots from cold nights.
A deciduous tree that is newly planted in spring has two tasks: root formation and photosynthesis for leaf formation. In order to meet both requirements, a deciduous tree planted in spring needs a lot of water. Check soil moisture every day or two for the first few weeks so you don’t miss watering. Then water every week until the end of the season unless it rains a lot at that time.
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