February in the garden

February: Calendar of gardening works

Calendar of works in the garden in February. Work in the garden in February. What do you need to do in the garden in February. Everything you need to do in the garden in February.

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List of works in February in the garden

1️⃣ now is the best time to buy soil for sowing seeds for sprouts. From my personal experience last year, the Moscow floors of Fasko and Garden and Garden are the floors of the Moscow companies. There are also good elite humus-based floors from the Voronezh company Blacksema. They are called “garden soil” and “soil for peppers and tomatoes”. Before each container, 1 teaspoon of AVA fertilizer dust fraction is added to each kilogram of chaff and mixed well. After that, the seedlings can not be fertilized for the whole period of growth.

Of course, you can make your own bottom from a mixture of peat, sand and ash. For a shovel of peat, take half a bucket of sand and a liter of ash. Instead of ash, you can pour a liter of chalk. Peat is sold in stores for gardeners, and sand and chalk can be bought at “all for home” or “building materials” stores.

Instead of shoveling peat, you can use coconut substrate (one brick stone per bucket of water). Remember, however, that these mixtures do not contain anything. In this preparation, you should make a complex mineral fertilizer, and the seedlings should not be watered constantly with water, but with a weak solution of such constantly watered fertilizer (1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water). If you use liquid fertilizer, take 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water. Compound fertilizers usually include not only nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but also micronutrients.

2️⃣ At home, you need to pay attention to the tubers of dahlias and gladiolus bulbs: discard the sick ones, cut out the wounds on the bulbs, lubricate the wounds with greenish and put them away again for storage. If you pick garlic and onions, jump out the bad heads. Those that have sprouted, laid out on damp sphagnum moss or soil, sprinkled in a flat container and stored on the windowsill for early shoots on herb breasts, save only in the spring.

3️⃣ Seeds must be cared for. Once again I remind you of this: do not sow anywhere or buy from anyone. Only buy seeds from brand-name stores. However, before you go into a store, check the delivery of the seeds you have. Don’t buy a lot of seeds for the future. Better yet, think hard about what and how much you will grow and whether you have the right conditions for your site. Then make a plan for planting on the site and in the greenhouses. Calculate how many and what kind of seedlings you need to buy or grow on a given site, and only then prepare containers for sowing seeds for seedlings.

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4️⃣ Celery for root crops should be sown in late February, as it will take about 200 days to form a large root crop.

Take your time with peppers, tomatoes and eggplants. Tall varieties and hybrids of peppers and eggplant can be seeded in the twentieth of February, and tall tomatoes are best sown in early March.

Paprika seeds are not easy, so they need to be stimulated. To do this, soak them in thermal water in a heat cabinet (plus 53 degrees) for half an hour. Then sow them immediately. If you just pour a solution of “zircon” (4 drops per glass of water), and then sprinkle half a cup of it and compact with a spoon with the solution.

Since the peppers are not picking badly (slightly broken, but the suction hair is restored for a long time), it is better to find them immediately in half-liter containers of 3 seeds in each glass at a distance of 2-3 for sowing. Peppers later do not deepen, so sow them deeply, about 3-4 cm. To sprout without falling off the shells from the seeds, the floor in front of the plant should be moistened, but not too muddy, but moderately and with a tablespoon to make it harder. Then place the seeds on the surface and cover to a height of 4 cm with dry earth, then clamp the spoon again. Put the cups under glass or film in a warm place. Peppers sprout in a week, when the floor temperature of about 28 – 32 degrees, but not above 40, otherwise the seeds will die. But peppers can die even at temperatures below 20 degrees.

5️ As soon as the first Zyamlingen onions appear, without waiting for the rest to emerge, move the container to a bright, moderately cool place (about 15 degrees) for a week, and then move them to a warmer (about 25 degrees) but bright place. After opening the cabbage leaves, immediately start liquid feeding, which is best done with a solution of Uniflor-Buton, as paprika is a big fan of potassium.

6 Ben ⃣ No manipulation can be done with the seeds of eggplant and tomato, as they already have good germination. To sow tomato and eggplant seeds, pepper seeds, you need to do the same thing, but only to a depth of 2 cm. Eggplants prefer nitrogen, so it is better to feed them with uniflor strips. But tomatoes like phosphorus, so for them it is better to give uniflor as fertilizer, but at the same time to make 1-2 grains of double granulated superphosphate (not more often than once a week) in the soil.

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During the growth of seedlings should not abuse nitrogen feeding, because nitrogen causes pulling of seedlings, especially tomatoes. Phosphorus feeding, on the other hand, limits growth.

7️⃣ The Sämmen variety requires good light, especially during the development of the cotyledons, so that the growth point represents the correct development program for this variety or hybrid. If there is a lack of light at the growing point, the leaves, without buds, are stunted as each next leaf appears after about 5-6 days, and the appearance of each additional leaf is delayed by the buds.

8️⃣ Check the condition of onion, garlic, gladiolus and dahlia tubers. If there are spots or wounds on gladioluses or dahlias, use a sharp knife to cut out areas of green and cover with ash or aspirin with a stiff plaque.

9️⃣ Plant sprouting garlic and onion heads in a flat container with sand or a non-layered bottom tightly and place on a windowsill. Water very moderately, otherwise the prostrate begins to rot and the room is filled with fruit fly – Drosophila. After two weeks, young greens appear on them.

Work in the garden in February

What can you do in the last winter month of winter? The snow has already fallen! But caring gardeners know – now there are a lot of urgent matters that need to be completed by spring. So what needs to be done in February without disruption?

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Here’s a plan for February that will help you navigate and not miss important things.

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One of the main jobs in the garden in February is rejuvenating trees. Such pruning brings three benefits at the same time:

  • Fruits grow larger;
  • Fruiting branches (1) therefore grow faster, increasing yields by 20-60%;
  • Frost-resistance of trees is increased, as well as easier treatment against diseases and pests.

Pruning is practical to carry out in stages.

Briefly about the trunk. The optimal height is 2 m, you can. It is so convenient to collect the fruits: from the height they do not run down, you do not need to climb the stairs for them.

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Put the shoot just above the upper skeletal branch, literally 1 – 2 cm. If you leave a blunt one, it will soon rot and hollows will form at the top.

Cut out all the shoots growing in the crown. They thicken the tree, air and moisture stagnates inside, pests settle and fungal diseases proliferate actively.

A tree pruned according to the rules should have a sparse bowl shape – inside is empty, all the branches are on the outside. How rare is it? Gardeners have this expression: “A sparrow must fly through the crown.”

Cut back the lateral skeletal branches. They should be about 2.5 m long and should be cut so that the outer branch looks out.

Keep an eye on the trees.

Usually white trees are found in the fall. But in winter it’s possible that the main thing will make it by mid-February, because in late February and early March there are sudden changes in temperature (2), when thawing is replaced by frosts. It happens that the bark heats up to 20 ° C during the day and cools down to 20 ° C at night. The difference is 40 ° C!

Because of sharp temperature drops, the bark and wood of the stem freeze and get the so-called sunburn. Only white tribes can save it.

It is best to use a special water base for this purpose – it is sold in garden centers.

Opponents of chemistry can recommend a mixture of clay and gauze (with the addition of ash, if desired). Tone perfectly protects trunks from the sun, frost and bumps. At the same time, the pores on the bark are not clogged and allow the plants to breathe. Adon mullin not only does not disappear, but also contains many nutrients and biologically active substances. Only now you can find it in the city of Coveyac.

And one more rule of thumb: soften trees only when the weather is dry.


If you want to graft fruit trees in April, you need to choose a day in which the air temperature is e-5 ° C. Then you can go to the garden for cuttings.

It is better to cut the shoots from healthy and productive trees of the desired variety at the age of 5 to 10 years on the southern side of the crown. The thickness of the shoots at the place of cutting should be at least 8 mm, and the length – from 35 to 60 cm. They are cut with secateurs or a garden knife.

Garden path.

Ideally, you should choose the drives with the future spring cutting in mind, so as not to cause much damage.

The cuts should not be touched with your hands to avoid introducing infection.

When picking shoots, consider the peculiarities of different plants. Apple and pear trees with one-year growth mainly form growth buds, so there are no problems with them.

The stone fruits such as plums, cherries, cherry plums, etc. have both growth and flower buds, and there are more flower buds. If a cuttings has only such buds, after grafting, it will bloom, but it will not grow. Especially often such unsuccessful grafting occurs with cherry and cherry trees. Therefore, cuttings with an apical bud, from which there is always growth, are preferred. In addition, the cherry usually has only flower buds in the lower part of the annual growth, so its shoots have to be cut away from the base by about 20 cm.

Plum plants lay more growth buds than cherry, while apricot and peach buds form a group, and one of them is a growth bud.

Vertically growing fat grafts (tops) are not suitable for grafting. They have poorly developed buds.

Shoots are tied in bundles, attach a moisture-resistant label with the name of the variety and immediately put in storage. Thermal pruning is inadmissible.

Cuttings by April can be stored in the refrigerator, or if there is no space, in the garden in a snowdrift. The thickness of the snow cover over cuttings should be about 50 cm. Closer to the feathers, if sketched on top and let form a snowball, using sawdust, shavings and straw to delay melting.

Only take cuttings from under the snow in the spring when grafting.

needle protection.

Many natural disasters can survive conifers and shrubs, but not the spring sun – in the first 2 years of life, it can destroy them. Why this happens is not known for certain. However, most experts agree that intensive sunlight triggers the mechanism of photosynthesis in conifers in February and March. However, since the ground is frozen and the roots are not functioning, all the water from the cells is used up in the process. The needles wither, turn brown, and the plant “burns out.” And then the weakened tree is finally killed by frost …

The first two years after replanting, most conifers need to be covered. The only exceptions are thuja and juniper, which can be shaded from the sun for up to 4 years.

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Branches of spruce and pine are considered the ideal shelter for conifers. It is best to make huts out of them. For this purpose, 5 strong poles are stuck to the sapling and their tops are tied with a rope. Then the spruce is suspended from the frame. For reliability, it can be tied to poles or bolted with wire. But remember: the branches should not only cover the top of the tree, but also reach the ground. After all, in winter the sunlight is reflected from the snow and falls on the conifers, including from below.

If there is no coniferous forest nearby you can use burlap as a cover, just wrap it around the tree and tie it with a rope.

Non-soaker for protection against burns is not suitable – it perfectly lets the light through. Polyethylene (some gardeners are trying to cover Christmas trees with black trash bags) is also not good: the plants under it will thin out.

Open the conifers only when the soil is flattened to at least the depth of the bayonet. In the midlands this happens around the end of April.

In cloudy weather, the cover should be removed. Ideally, if you have studied the weather forecast beforehand, and opened the plants the day before the overcast period for 4-7 days. Then your needle pets will be able to painlessly adapt to the bright light.

Popular Q&A

We talked about working with agronomist Svetlana Mikhailova in February.

Is it okay to dump snow from paths into the garden and vegetable garden?

Not only you can – you need to! First of all, snow is a great protection for plants from frost, and they are quite severe in February. Snow is especially important for heat-loving plants. Second, the snow begins to melt in the spring, and the more snow there is, the better the soil is saturated with moisture. This means sown seeds germinate better and perennials begin to grow faster.

Do I need to shake the snow off the trees?

Is it necessary to shovel snow around fruit trees, as is often recommended?

It only makes sense to shovel snow under apple trees – they wake up late, and condensed snow melts more slowly and saturates the floor with moisture longer. But under stone fruit crops it should not be trampled – they can carry the trunks.

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