Before you buy Champion BC6712 at the lowest price, study the specifications, video reviews, pros and cons of the model, and customer reviews.
Champion BC6712 video reviews
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- Reviews 1
- Ratings 2
Champion BC6712 SpecificationsBasic Specifications *
|Tillage depth||33 cm|
|Chopper speed||130 rpm|
|Number of cultivators in the set||6 pcs.|
|Working width||30-85 cm|
|Drainage force||12.4 Prince|
|engine power||4.10 kW / 5.57 hp at 3600 rpm|
|engine type||Gasoline, four-stroke, cylinders: 1|
|fuel consumption||395 g/kWh|
|engine displacement||196 cc|
|number of gears||1 forward, 1 forward 1|
|type of responsibility||Belt|
|wheel type||solid rubber|
|dimensions, LxWxH||1240x820x870 mm|
* For exact specifications, please contact your dealer.
Been using it for 3 years! Everything is great.
Used for two years, the plot line overgrown with a mandrel was opened from scratch, i.e. the cultivator did the heavy class work and met it with honor. The soil, dense clay, in three passes, from the virgin, turns into fluff, roots, up to two centimeters in diameter, tears, throwing to the surface. Unfertilized height in place was +/- 50 cm, plowed plot without problems. davolen
Actually, I recommend everyone who is going to buy this device. When buying, you will not see suggestions like prepare before selling, it’s pure divorce. Better to take your friend and take the product completely disassembled in a box and assemble yourself.
A good device. What was handled in one day, can now be handled in a year and a half. It’s a little more than one, hard, difficult and nothing to take on. But worth its money (20,000).
If you omit the minuses of assembly (bang for your buck). The hoses twist the screws. You have to read the manual). Don’t forget that the cart is empty from the factory, first replacement after five hours of work.
Review: Champion BC6712 is a powerful power tiller.
I bought a Champion BC6712 power tiller to cultivate the plot of my 6-year-old Nazal. The company is reputable, originally from the U.S., although it is made in the Celestial Empire. Attracted power – six and a half horses, working depth of 330 mm at a passage width of 850 mm (with 6 cutters). A powerful machine. I looked at the engine reviews beforehand. There is a petrol four-stroke engine G200HK with the working volume of 196 cm. More often than not, the reviews on it are just as reliable. I agree with that assessment. Not once in 6 years has it needed major repairs. Changed the spark plugs a couple of times, they are the same as on VAZ cars, several times adjusted the valves, as soon as I had to take over the carburetor, flush it and blow it out – the air jet clogged, the carburetor started pouring gasoline, the jet dropped and the engine began to smoke and overheat. Basically, all of this is part of the maintenance. Runs, of course, on gasoline AI92 without adding oil – a four-stroke engine. The volume of the fuel tank is 3,6 liters. In an hour of work, it eats about 1.6 liters. In the fuel filler neck there is a filter screen with a red bar. It is not recommended to fill it up to the top so that gasoline does not splash out of the tank. The cooling system is air. Lubrication system is spraying. I change oil once in a season. Oil plug is in the front of the tank. Volume of the filled oil is 0,6 l. Any engine oil for medium-sized carburetor engines is suitable. I use the same one I use for my car. There is a measuring mark of its level on the oil filler plug. In addition, the engine is equipped with a dry start protection. There is a float sensor in the crankcase, if the oil level drops, a relay will go off and you just won’t start the engine.
There is also a twist-out ignition switch. The controls are on the right side:
There are two levers right on the carburetor. The bottom one controls the gas tank valve. It is open (forward) when the engine is running. It’s better to shut it off in the unedited, so the gasoline doesn’t peek out. Above is the carburetor air damper control lever. Back it is closed, forward it is open. The cold engine is started with the air damper closed. Otherwise it will not start. As soon as the engine starts, it must be opened immediately, otherwise the engine will “pump” gasoline. In this case it smokes, does not develop dynamics, splashes the spark plug and glows. Even higher is the throttle control lever, the throttle. This lever duplicates the lever on the left handle, they are hardwired with a cable (1st photo). In principle, you can adjust each of them – one will pull the other. Open the faucet, turn on the ignition. Set the throttle in the middle position and pull the starter knob. The engine starts the first time with a half jump. Open the choke. Turn on gas. Warm up a little and drive off. Let off the gas. Work a little at low rpm to let the engine cool down a bit and shut off, and turn off the ignition. The front and reverse clutches are on the right handle of the cultivator. The black one is forward, the red one is reverse.
With the handle clamped, the cultivator drives with the handle released, which stands still. Under the left cover of the cultivator there is a belt transmission from the engine shaft pulley to the second gear chain.
One of the two belts transmits the rotation to the chain drive belt disk. One gives it clockwise rotation, the other gives it counterclockwise rotation. Which one works is determined by the tension rollers, of one or the other belt. They are controlled by these knobs through a cable. The tension of each cable is set in two places: on the handle and on the cable in the middle. This is necessary to achieve reliable movement when the clutch is pressed and the strap slips when loosened. The spring counteracts the tension. It loosens the jerk, the belt acts as a tensioner, when the cultivator hits a root or rock, the belt slips, which does not cause the blade, motor or belt to break. The weak point is the plastic clutch core buttons. I broke one of them the first year I was pulling the unit out of the shed – I hit a pole. Not easy to find them on sale, had to weld “kolhoz” with a soldering iron. The air filter is double. A block of paper umbrella accordion, and then oiled foam. The foam is washed in every detergent. The paper filter has to be replaced.
You don’t always and everywhere you have to buy one. These filters purify the air more reliably than oil filters, but are more cumbersome and expensive to operate. The manufacturer recommends changing them every 50 hours, or every 10 hours in especially dusty conditions. The cutting blades are removable. The cutter tube is wider on one side than on the other, they are simply assembled together and secured with a pin pulled out behind the hole. It is secured from falling out by a spring reserve.
Pictured below. Maintenance of the blade is minimal. After work, I clean off the clogged dirt with a homemade “cleaner” made of ordinary steel, similar to a wide chisel:
For the winter, I lubricate the knives with preservative grease. And drain the gas. 6 Cutters I don’t usually use. It’s hard to carry, our floors are heavy, loamy, I leave 4. In general, I am satisfied with the cultivator. With it you can use all the attachments: plow, hiller, etc. Although, probably, for the countryside, it is better to pay extra and buy a tractor with manual control. It is not designed for harnessed “wheelbarrow”.