Autumn trimming of grapes

Fall Grape Pruning: Step-By-Step Beginner’s Guid e-Grapes

Tell me what and how is trimming grapes in the fall? They bought a cottage in the summer, the site is not bad, a lot of plants, but everything is unpredictable. During the summer they did a little cleaning, something that was removed but the old vineyard remained. They even “attached” the old timers of the young seedlings of my beloved dining room Caraman. But the old bushes themselves did not manage to rejuvenate in the fall. What to do with them now and how to cut young plants?

Cut grapes in autumn

Along with spring pruning, many gardeners prefer such an event as grapes in the fall. One of the main advantages is the ability to free up a significant time of spring work. Shrubs that have gone in winter are already pruned with the onset of the new season, and just need a little updating. This makes it possible to pay more attention to the garden and garden trees. The haircut procedure takes a lot of time, especially if you have a large vineyard and overgrown with old overgrown bushes yourself. It is not worth forgetting about the importance of autumn pruning for grapes themselves. It allows you to significantly increase future fruiting and not just future fruiting. What else are the advantages of this procedure, if it can be performed and how correctly – we will discuss all this today. Also find out how to prepare grapes for pruning.

Grape cuttings in the fall – a guarantee of a good harvest in the next season

Advantages of the autumn cut of grapes

We will perhaps start with what can be achieved by trimming accurately in the fall. First of all, one of the main objectives is to regulate the fruiting both to improve the taste and the qualitative indicators of the harvest, namely:

  • The clusters ripen earlier than on the bushes cut in the spring.
  • Both berries and clusters will be larger;
  • The sugar content increases, which means that the grapes are sweeter, which is not the last value for table varieties.

Another plus of autumn pruning directly concerns the issue of wintering of grapes. During the season, the bush grows significantly both in height and width, and it is completely difficult to cover it. But the cut plants acquire compact dimensions and hide without problems. Do not forget that spring pruning always ends with “weeping” of grapes. The sap resulting from the sections affects and weakens the general “borehole” of the bush. The bushes cut in the fall do not cry.

Pruning also helps to reduce the influence of grape polarity, which in nature develops first in the upper part. You have the opportunity to form fruit links in autumn.

Buyer for a beginner in terminology

Weinberg diagram

The fruit connection is part of the old wood (many years of shooting). After trimming, two shoots remain on it: 1 long and 1 short vine.

A long vine is the fruit shoot (it is also a fruit arrow), on which up to 10 kidneys remain after shortening. Of these, young shoots will appear in the next season, to which a new crop will be tied.

A short vine is a slut with four eyes at most. The next fall leaves a few young shoots to form a fruit compound. The vine that appeared on the bitch of the surrogate should not bear fruit in the next season in order to accumulate enough nutrients.

The peephole is what many call a cardioid, but in fact it can have multiple cardioids. In the spring, several young shoots do not grow out of one eye.

Over time, on an old grape bush, sleeves are formed, like a tree – skeletal branches. At the same time, a young vine is pruned on each pod to form new fruit links, which consist of a fruit arrow and a spare knot.

The grape bears fruit on a young vine growing on a fruiting arrow formed in the fall. The largest clusters are on the central shoots emerging from the left eye. Side buds give a smaller crop with poorer flavor characteristics. For this reason, they are usually removed during pinching.

What preparation does grape pruning need in autumn?

Treatment of grapes with iron sulfate

As you’ve probably guessed, it’s mostly cover crop varieties that get pruned back in the fall. If the climate in the south allows the vineyard to overwinter, this is an integral part of care in more northern latitudes. But for plants to survive the winter well, it is not enough to just cut and cover them.

Grapes need more careful preparation, especially with regard to preventive measures against diseases and pests. A favorable microclimate is created under cover for both the fungus and the larvae of various insects. Therefore, do not forget to process the plantings, but not before the leaves fall and the buds close, otherwise they will burn out. One of the best means is a solution based on ferrous sulfate and urea. The first destroys fungi, and the second – pest larvae.

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Pruning is almost the final part of the process of sending a vineyard for the winter. It ends directly with the bending of the vine and the construction of the shelter. But it is preceded by another obligatory autumn event – top dressing. After harvesting, dig aisles with the following fertilizers:

  • Humus;
  • superphosphate;
  • potassium sulfate.

As for water-boosting watering, it is recommended to do it after pruning, but a week before building the shelter. Expected dates are November. Dry land freezes more, which means there is a risk that the root system of the grapes will suffer. At the same time, with a rainy autumn, additional moisture is not required.

If you need to propagate your favorite strain, fall is the perfect time to take cuttings. There is a lot of material left after pruning, so taking cuttings from the vine will not be a problem.

When to start pruning

When to cut grapes

The timing of pruning depends on the region where the grapes are grown, but in general you should have time for it before stable frosts occur. A frozen vine will become brittle, and cold weather is not conducive to gardening. But you should not hurry with pruning – the shoots must have time to mature. The bush itself will let you know when this happens. After the vine receives nutrients, the leaves turn yellow and begin to crumble. And now, after the leaf fall, it’s time for a fall haircut.

After the first frost, which “helps” the foliage to fall, you can start pruning. This is expected to take place in October.

However, many gardeners argue that after pruning, the grapes weaken and endure wintering less well. To an extent they are right, but let’s not forget that in the fall they prune off the varieties that take cover. And shelter is the real remedial measure that will help the bushes overwinter without harming them.

How to prune grapes

The autumn cut of grapes has its own subtleties, and this does not only apply to plants of different ages. Before we deal with the details thoroughly, we remember some nuances: what can be cut and what not, and also how to do it right.

There are also several trim methods, depending on how many eyes are left. This is of little importance because each grape variety uses its own technology. It is particularly important for table and wine types to use the right method.

What are the basic principles of circumcision

Basic cutting principles

The main rules for the cut in spring and autumn are:

  1. Do not cut the vine into a ring. In contrast to garden trees, stumps of at least 1.5 cm height should remain on the vine. If you cut briefly, the drive can freeze or dry out.
  2. Make a cut on the internodes, but not in the middle. It should be deeper towards the lower kidney (eye).
  3. Cut all the sick, broken, thin, less than 5 mm diameter) and short tendrils. It only thickens the bush and makes it vulnerable to diseases. This is called hygiene cut.
  4. Also remove the fruit shoots of the current season.
  5. When pruning a young vine, make sure that it is ripe. Such a drive is wooded, i.e. shorten to a ful l-grown point, even if you have to leave less eyes.
  6. Form a new fertile arrow on the drive, which served as a replacement node last year. At the same time, let the tendril that is closer to the base of the knot.
  7. If the replacement node did not show any developed drives, the formation of a new node from the vine on the fruit arrow is permitted.
  8. Make a new replacement node directly under the fruit arrow. Otherwise, the bush begins in spring to develop it because the main food goes to the kidneys above.
  9. Do not leave a vine too long – it should fit the trellis. Then the bush looks wel l-groomed and it is comfortable to tie it.
  10. Free yourself from extreme drives that move away from the trellis. In spring there is nothing to be bound when the vine begins to grow in length.

After cutting, they have more than half of the vine, but that shouldn’t be scary. For a ful l-grown shrub that is shaped like a compartment and has 5 sleeves, it is sufficient to have up to 10 eyes on each vine, with a total number of up to 50. However, this is the main nuance of autumn cuts: instead of a fruit strut , it is recommended to leave two. The second drive is a replacement in the event that the first one freezes.

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What trim methods are there?

Cut by Guyot

Each grape variety has its own cultivation and cutting requirements. It depends on what harvest you get, so study the information carefully. Often too many eyes weaken the bush considerably. It begins to actively increase the leaf mass to the disadvantage of fruit formation and tie small grapes.

In general, there are 3 ways to trim the vineyard, each of which is correct, but is recommended for different types of cultures:

  1. Short. Is used for types of wine. Purpose: Remove most of the tendril and do not leave more than 4 eyes on the fruit arrows.
  2. Average. Is used for table varieties. Goal: 8 eyes on the cut vine.
  3. Long. Also suitable for table varieties and also for Asian varieties. Purpose: to shorten the fruit arrow on 12 eyes.
  4. According to Guyo (it is mixed). Recommended for beginner gardeners. Purpose: First form a bush without a stem and leave a bitch for 3-4 eyes and a fruit arrow for 6 to 8 eyes.

The Gyo cut is suitable for both wine and dining room. So if you don’t know what grapes you have, you can use it safely.

Cut grapes for beginners in autumn – from year to three

Cut young grapes in autumn

So we came to the most important question: How can you cut grapes to form several sleeves with fruit connections after 3 years? This is exactly the purpose of the procedure.

So let’s take a look at the level formation of a young bush, starting from the first year of landing, until you reach the thre e-year age:

  1. First autumn, grapes 1 year. In spring they planted a seedling and gave a young escape. After falling the sheet, shorten it in 4 eyes. If the bush has two vines, act in a similar way: cut each and do not leave more than 4 eyes.
  2. Second autumn, Bush 2 years. At that time there are already at least two young people with every cut, in general – up to 5 vines of young growth. If you make a strong shoot in the summer grapes, you should definitely make coin and remove steps son. You must not leave more than 5 drives and frozen well. Next year you will become the sleeves, but you will shorten everyone up to 3-4 eyes. The vine should be as close as possible to the grid, so it is comfortable to tie it in summer.
  3. Third autumn, grapes 3 years. At this point, a young vine grew during 4 filming last year, ie the formation of four sleeves. With each of them you only have to leave two young vines and choose the most powerful. Then form a fruit connection link from the two leftists on the left. To do this, shorten the lower to 4 eyes – it becomes a substitution node. Cut on 6 eyes that are at the top – this is the future fruit arrow.

If you have a frosty autumn winter, it must not leave 4, but 6 eyes in the first two years. Three of them will be in the event of freezing the vine. With the advent of spring, you will carry out repeated pruning and shorten the shoots. In the same way, they appear for 3 and 4 years of life with a shrub, leave two instead of a fruit arrow in reserve and removed the replacement in spring.

Cutting system of adult grapes (from 4 years and older)

Casing ripening grapes

Trimming grapes in autumn with the further formation of the bush is the annual removal of the flattened vine. As well as when laying new fruit connections. Most of the time, grapes are grown on a grille in one or two wire rows. Depending on the height of the grid, the bush itself is formed by a mult i-weaker fan with 3 or 5 sleeves. At the same time, cut each sleeve one after the other, depending on which increase you have added, for example:

  1. At the first sleeve, 4 young strong shoots grew weak in autumn, 5 weak, and there are 1 red vine. They delete it in the first and every 5 branches from the weak shoots. Of the four young shoots, they only remove 3, 1. And from the three shoots on the left, the lowest cut on 3 kidneys per bitch. Two upper vines are shortened on 6 – 10 eyes. These are fruit arrows (1 replacement that must be cut out in spring).
  2. The second sleeve only gave 2 young vines and flattened another. You remove it and from the available two shoots you form another fruit connection link based on the same principle. The lower vine goes to the substitution node, the upper one – with the pulp.
  3. On the third sleeve, 2 strong young vines and 1 weaker grew in the course of the season, from below, and a branch with grapes. Cut the last of 3 young shoots with a replacement knot, make the weaker, the lower one. Transfer the remaining two to fruit arrows and shorten them to 6 buds.
  4. The fourth arm also resulted in a small increase of only 2 shoots and a fruit tank. Leave the lower one on the replacement knot, but cut it off with a small edge, 6 eyes instead of 3. shorten the upper shoot on 10 eyes per fruit arrow. Removes vines that have already given a harvest.
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In spring you only have to easily correct the shape of the bush and remove the surplus fruit arrows when all overwinter. Also make sure to remove the eyes that bloom under the level of the trellis (the first wire), unless this is a replacement node.

Cutting grapes in autumn to rejuvenate the bush

If your grapes are 8 years old and your sleeves are much longer, rejuvenate the bush. Cut the old sleeve into a blunt without pity. And instead, they form a boy from the root drives that appeared near the trunk. In the first year of the rejuvenating cut, it serves as a recovery node. If there is none, do not cut the sleeve completely, but to the bottom tendril (above). In this case, the young sleeve is formed from a slopes.

These are all tricks for trimming wine vines in autumn that you need to know. In the beginning it may seem very difficult, but over time you will understand everything and “fill” your hand, because practice is always better than theory. High returns for you!

Cut grapes in autumn

The pruning of the grapes is necessary so that they bear fruits every year. If you reject this procedure, the chaotically growing bushes can become completely wild and die without adequate care: the weather is changeable and pests are always nearby.


The autumn cut makes it possible to obtain all the nutrients for wintering in order to prevent freezing thin drives that had no time to be blocked. The fact is that freezing fragile shoots, including harvesting such as grapes, makes susceptible to cold weather – it cannot protect himself from a strong change of weather that is often observed in the low season. In addition, dead shoots open the way for pathogens, mushrooms and molds that affect younger shoots, which had no time to fortify themselves, from which this microflora is then transferred to older, hibernation maturity. If everything is cut off and the interfaces are closed with paraffin, wax or garden bad luck, access to all these pests is blocked.

The only prerequisite is that the autumn cut is carried out after the leaves: When it begins and the foliage becomes yellow, the shrub already has time to absorb all organic substances it needs to overwinter.

Timed coordination

Cutting in autumn is carried out in the northern regions, including the Urals, in the middle or end of September. The temperature in the north after August, including the majority of the territories of Siberia and in the Far East, contributes to night frosts that grapes, if the leaves were still on it, could not bear it. In the regions of the Volga region, in the Altai territory and in the middle strip of Russia, pruning is urged to the middle or the end of October. As an example – the Republic of Bashkiria. The southern regions such as the Rostov region allow the procedure in November. The leaves from the vineyard often fail at the end of the month. For example, such a picture in Sochi is observed on the coast of the Caspian Sea.

Cutting is covered before the bushes are covered. Covering the vineyard for winter is important when the winter is hard: cooling belo w-20 and frequent ice winds lead to freezing the bushes. To prevent freezing, grape bushes can be grown here under greenhouse conditions in greenhouse conditions. The cropping of the vineyard, which aims at the sanitary care (removal of patients, affected persons and dried branches), is carried out at any time and ideally – immediately if unsafe branches are determined. After the harvest, you can also cut off the tops and secondary processes, the s o-called so. Step sons grow in the middle of the knot and directed away from the main branches. The time of cutting is mainly in the evening, especially in summer: day warmth should end. After circumcision, the vineyard will be carried out a small top dressing if necessary.

The cutting of the excess tips, which were stopped in the growth and in vain, absorb moisture and nutrients, create a fruit in the stage: This is necessary that the clusters formed are grown faster and ripe.

Features of the structure of grapes

We will find out how the grape bush is arranged, starting with the lowest zone:

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deep roots (main and side);

Transition (s o-called underground tribe);

Subordiners roots (flow into the trunk) and collect moisture from dew that falls on the floor in the morning;

Basal socket (transition to the main stem);

It is indeed the main stem – it is the basis of the bush;

Reviews for lateral stems (main nodes);

Accordingly, the page itself comes.

The second branches go out of the lateral stems that are skeletal forming. The structure of the vine is that a year of growth development is an order of branches. All superfluous that disturb the development of the main part of the bush is mercilessly dismissed and underdeveloped – including the patient. This is the main secret of an abundant, hig h-quality harvest.

The vine is arranged in such a way that it grows even under difficult conditions. It is possible to option if wild grapes appear on the rocks, where a fertile layer – sedimentary chopped rocks seasoned with organic humus – fill large cracks and when the grape seeds arrives there (for example it is eaten and digested while the germs are eaten and digested the seeds are kept alive), it remains). Then it starts, takes on the roots and goes into these cracks, which receives moisture from there, from a considerable depth (which seeps there during the rains). Of course, it is unlikely that “Okultet” varieties will grow in a rock, and if they germinate, do not give the culture of plenty – not the conditions.

But the vineyard can also survive a two to three-week drought: the roots penetrate the soil to a clay layer several tens of centimeters deep, where they find the minimum, vital amount of moisture. Nevertheless, watering the grapes is still necessary.

how to lead

It is necessary in the fall to cut the grapes not randomly, but according to a certain pattern. The simplest sequence of actions for beginners is given below.

In the first year

The first year – after planting a grape bush in spring – is characterized by minimal pruning. This process is shown step by step in the following steps.

Cut off all the fragile shoots (tops) that have not had time to develop. Most likely, they will not survive the coming winter.

Do not make a pruning if the bush was weak. For example, planted in places where it is absent.

When the vine is grown from seed, it can grow slowly. In this situation, pruning of the stems is not carried out.

In other cases, grape shoots are cut up to the 4th bud (counting from the branch).

There is no point in leaving more buds: the shorter the shoot, the thicker it will be, which means that it will better survive the period of regular frosts.

For the second year

Beginners who have mastered the basic patterns of shoot pruning by the age of 1 year change the pruning scheme in the second year. A two-year-old bush is pruned according to the following scheme. As a rule, each bush already has 4-5 healthy shoots. They are skeleton builders, so to speak: these main branches determine what harvest the summer resident expects. The new shoots that have grown over the summer must be shortened by the 4th bud. As a result, several second-order branches are formed. This year the vine will grow.

Periodically carry out a sanitary pruning of the bush. Also cut off the crown and cut off all the shoots that grow in some directions: this will prevent the bush from thickening. Although the leaves and stems are arranged so that they don’t shade each other, the thickened vine will grow chaotically, blocking the way to the clusters of direct sunlight. If the fruit does not receive direct sunlight, the ripe grapes taste “like grass”, sweetness and aroma are almost absent, it has fewer nutrients. In the second year, the fruiting of the vineyard is still low: A maximum of one or two bushes may appear on a vine.

For the third year

A three-year-old bush loses all underdeveloped shoots during autumn pruning – only a few of the strongest remain. You become the most important. The lowest one is cut off up to the 4th kidney, the upper one up to about the 8th kidney. The yield of each bush is significantly increased.

All branches of the third order must be shortened in the same way – as with annuals. On the branches of the second – like branches two years old.

The older the bush, the greater the likelihood of thickening, since there are more and more actively growing shoots, including annuals.


As Practice shows, the general principle remains unchanged: every branch that has grown against the 4th kidney in a summer accident and counts the discrepancy from the next place. This enables the bush to develop comprehensively, while his crown repeats the direction of the canopy or the grid on which it grows up. If there are too many shoots, for example when the vine has developed into the state of an adult plant and it cannot grow anywhere (there is not enough space), it will be regarded as old from this year and must be regarded regularly from this year All old people who survived their shoots, d. H. NEW, with the old interwoven, cause thickening. The “skeleton” – warehouse – unit can grow endlessly. Then the summer residents use a “replacement sequence” of actions.

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In 1-2 years, they will give new filming. Even better if the old vine has a new escape from the subordinate roots, but lets the general root escape. They wait for the new escape to become stronger, it will be loud.

In autumn, this escape is cut together with the roots of the general (maternal) roots, which are placed in a tone “chatter” with peat and other no n-aggressive fertilizers.

They are uprooted with an old vine with all its roots and check the soil where it grew up for the presence of the remains of the roots. An excavator is often hired to remove because the vine has grown deep and reliably into the ground like a tree – you need a bucket that digs an old plant in a movement.

They throw it back into the resulting floor, the extracted floor, they dig a small hole in it, 10-15 cm of sand are poured on the floor, they plant a daughter process from the old vine, excavation, ram and water once a day, so that it causes roots. Such preparation offers a high probability of survival and adaptation of a new system to existing conditions. Particularly valuable varieties such as Bessemey are suitable for the production of raisins – they are propagated for the fastest effect by cuttings.

Therefore, you can completely update the varietie s-Weinberg without losing it completely. Vineyards are characterized by incredible survival and adaptability – even a stem with several buds can take root. The new vineyard is served according to the scheme described above. If the vineyard’s update has passed, a subsidiary that is planted separately develops quickly in the first spring and becomes an independent vine.

The mult i-year vine, which has not been tailored for several years, loses all its sortal properties and transforms acid taste, the lack of sugar. Such a vineyard harms itself and shadows a significant part of the older branches.

If the grape bush developed quite quickly, could grow its main opponents, it can be done – if necessary – not late, but early (according to the calendar) in autumn. The advantage of this solution is obvious: You can complete the vineyard at an early stage and work with other cultures and landings.

The autumn cutting is carried out in cheaper weather.

The vine stops passing on the nutrients (before the start of the cold weather). All minerals arriving with water remain in its main branches.

The disadvantage of early pruning is that the branches had no time before inserting the leaves to find organic substances that are necessary for successful wintering. This can affect the winter hardness.

A vine should not be allowed to produce any additional offspring from the root zone, unless they multiply by transplanting these offshoots anywhere else. The formation of a bush is the removal of all shoots and branches that negatively influence the yield.

Do not forget regular fertilization, do not neglect pest control. If you do not want to use industrial emissions, summer residents use proven folk remedies: boric acid, a solution of iodine or wash soap, copper or iron sulfate.

Cala and phosphate fertilizers are preferably used for top dressing, which accelerate the growth and development of bushes.

The vineyard is subjected to “stepchildren” regardless of the number of years of life – the procedure can be carried out regularly every month regardless of the season, while the bush continues to grow. Young branches of Pasyncovanie increase productivity, do not let side branches grow and absorb up to half of the nutrients. If you have missed the removal of one or more “stepchildren” and then grew up to independent branches, according to which the general (above) scheme have been stronger and trimmed and also get rid of your own “step sons” second order, then nothing will happen: The Wine bushes will continue to bring good harvests. However, try not to leave these “knot” branches: The structure of these branches is so that they are easier to cancel than a normal branch. “Stepson” is a rudiment, it is desirable to get rid of it.

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