A beautiful lawn as far as the eye can see! The best remedies for grass loss after winter
Causes of lawn loss-holes
- Drought,
- Grass sleeping through the winter.
- Felt and moss covering the lawn,
- Low resistance of the lawn to fungi and pathogenic bacteria,
- Constant rain, then water “stands” on the lawn.
Lawn care is essential for thinning the lawn. The better it is cared for after the winter, the more it is protected in the spring – from damage caused by adverse factors to which it has no influence. Thus, weather conditions as well as . disorders from pets.
Does your lawn look alike? Don’t pee yet! Proper seeding brings your lawn back to its natural beauty.
How do you make holes in your lawn?
A grass bush grows from a seed. If you spread the right amount of seeds evenly around the garden when you sow your lawn and most of them germinate well, you will have a beautiful, compact lawn.
Unfortunately, it can happen that grass clumps gradually lose their natural color over time due to various adverse factors (you already know which ones). They fade until they take on a straw color. They die one by one, then fall out and leave an empty space – which is occupied by unwanted “self-seeding”.
There is no way out of this situation. It is necessary to sow grass in the places where the defects occurred.
Sow grass. How can you compensate for lawn losses?
Option 1: Mow the same grass mixture as on the lawn.
Option 2: Sow self-compacting grass.
Which way and under what circumstances is better?
On the left you see your current lawn. Right – your lawn in a few months. Here’s how seeding works!
Option 1: Mowing the same grass mixture as the lawn.
This is the most recommended method of filling holes in your lawn. When the new grass bushes grow back and completely cover the voids, the lawn regains its uniform appearance. In this case, the grass grows at the same rate.
The disadvantage of this solution is the risk of re-growth of voids in places where the grass did not want to grow in the first place. For example, in shaded or frequently trampled places. However, this problem can be solved by sowing grass from a different mixture in parts of the lawn. It is more resistant to damage or difficult conditions.
Option 2: Sow self-compacting grass.
- Creates a naturally beautiful – green, dense, compact – lawn,
- Thanks to underground shoots, it holds up well in hollows,
- Damaged lawn regenerates (branching),
- Self destroys microorganisms faster than with a conventional grass mixture.
In a situation where you want a quick seeding effect or just can’t remember what seeds you used when setting up your lawn, use a self-compacting grass mixture.
The mix consists of specially selected grass seeds, which, thanks to underground rhizomes, spread in all directions. They cross each elm tree as well, putting down roots. Together they form a dense lawn that covers the “marks” of the bare earth as they grow.
The voids disappear from the surface of the lawn within a few months. It itself looks as if it never had any imperfections, even the smallest ones.
Lawns supplemented with self-compacting grass are very resistant to intensive use (frequent trampling) and adverse weather conditions – strong sun, frost, rain or snowfall. It is also self-regenerating; a new tuft of grass grows from underground rhizomes.
How is a regular grass different from a self-growing grass?
A regular grass is a collection of individual, separately growing tufts. Because of its thickening, it forms a dense network of bundles connected to each other by underground rhizomes. One beam stimulates the development of the other, so that all of them evenly overgrow the turf, eliminating vacant areas and voids.
Preparing your lawn for grass seeding
- Mow the grass for the first time of the season.
- Remove straw, moss and weeds.
- Loosen up the lawn – especially where the grass takes up bare soil.
- Mow the lawn again to remove the grass clippings and make room for seeds to germinate.
Voids, the holes between the growing grass are usually compacted soil that needs to be prepared for seeding grass seeds.
Remove straw, moss, and weeds.
First, remove the damaged sod. When turf begins to rot, it becomes a place where all sorts of pathogens find shelter. As a result, young tufts of grass cannot grow normally. They will grow slower than they should.
In other words, scarify your lawn.
This is one of the most important ways to restore your lawn after winter. It involves mowing the lawn vertically – a few to a few millimetres deep (depending on the degree of damage to the lawn and your scarifier skills).
The environmentally friendly electric scarifier is a good solution for both small and medium sized lawns. It is in no way inferior to the internal combustion engine in terms of efficiency, and at the same time works quietly – not disturbing the rest of the household.
How do I scarify my lawn?
- Set the working depth of the scarifier blades to 1.3 – 2 cm.
- Run the device along the lawn in vertical lines.
- Change the working direction; guide the scarifier across the lawn with horizontal lines.
If the lawn is severely damaged, you must work at the maximum depth. D o 20 mm, for which STIGA petrol scarifiers are capable. For surface damage, the cutting blades can work higher. Even at a depth at which electric scarifiers cut the lawn. So in the field:
- From – 6 mm to +4 mm,
- fro m-13 mm to +4.5 mm.
Loosen the lawn, especially where there is bare soil instead of grass.
When your lawn has recovered from scarifying, it’s time to aerate it. That is, aerating the lawn by deepening the turf to a depth of 8-10 cm into the ground.
What is the difference between scarifying and aeration? Aeration is a more delicate process because it pierces the turf, not cuts it.
- levels the lawn
- aerates the base
- strengthens the base
- helps get rid of moss and weeds
- Improves the flow of water to the grass roots.
When working with a ripper and aerator, focus first on areas where there is no grass and compacted soil. You need loosening because the seeds need fertile, light soil to take root quickly and well.
First: scarification. Second: ventilation. Overall, effective restoration of damaged lawns.
Scarification, aeration. What’s the difference between similar-sounding restoration procedures that restore a lawn to its original state? Continue reading!
Moisten the lawn to remove debris and make room for the seeds to germinate.
All that’s left is to cut the grass! This is where a lawn mower with a roomy basket comes in handy. The more cuts you can put in at one time, the less often you will empty it. As a result, you will mow the lawn a lot quicker. And the job is done!
Stiga’s lithium-ion battery-powered battery packs up to 60 liters of grass clippings into one basket at a time. Gasoline and electric mowers collect a little more – up to 70 liters of grass clippings.
By the way, removing and installing the basket – regardless of which mower you work with, is very easy:
- You grab the handle.
- You take out the basket.
How to choose a mower? 9 tips from a Stiga specialist
See what our expert says about buying a mower. And what you should look out for when buying a mower. And keep reading!
How do I sow my lawn?
- Water the lawn with a fresh substrate high in humus.
- Sow two full handfuls of grass seed per m² of lawn.
- Water the seeds regularly.
- Put fertilizer on the lawn.
1. Fill the lawn with fresh substrate with a high humus content.
A thin (1 cm) layer of fresh soil with humus will accelerate the density of the lawn and the germination of the grass seeds. Tamp the soil thoroughly with a shovel so that it spreads evenly over the entire surface of the lawn.
2. Fill in 2 handfuls of seeds per square meter of lawn.
A little more seed can be sown into the blanks. This way the voids will be beautifully covered with fresh, dense grass. Roll the lawn again to get the seeds in between the growing grasses.
PSS! If your home has a large lawn that you can easily mow with a Park or Villa garden tractor, we have some helpful information for you. You can also use it to spread grass and fertilizer! All you have to do is attach the fertilizer to it.
This handy accessory does all the work for you. So you will have less to do in the garden and more energy and free time which you can use in a more pleasant way. Take care of your hobbies for example or spend time playing with your loved ones. In the garden, of course!
3. Water your seeds regularly.
4. Fertilize your lawn.
Watering the seeds speeds up germination. Lawn fertilizer is sown about a month after the grass is sown and gives your renovated lawn an even better start – a good rooting time. You’ll get the best results with a long-lasting multi-nutrient fertilizer.
In addition to nitrogen, multi-nutrient fertilizer contains phosphorus, potassium and iron – elements that affect the condition and appearance of the lawn after the winter.
- Phosphorus stimulates root development,
- Potassium increases resistance of the lawn to diseases, adverse weather conditions and damage.
- Iron increases the production of chlorophyll, which makes the grass so green.
A single fertilisation is enough for a maximum of one season; it is effective for 100 to 160 days. It is effective for 100 to 160 days, i.e. continuously for six months. The lawn then absorbs almost 70% of the active nutrients (40% more than with component fertiliser).
Don’t worry about a detected lawn. It will be corrected quickly! You can compact your lawn in two ways – with a mixture of regular grass and natural grass. Regardless of which one you choose, you will effectively damage all the cavities. The effect? A beautiful lawn that is a source of joy and pride.
Did you enjoy this article? Be sure to read the following! R.
You’ll find even more practical knowledge about restoring your lawn after winter:
How to Restore a Lawn After Winter
For a lawn to become an ornament of the cottage, it must be cared for. The end of the winter is not a pretty sight: the lawn is spotted, the grass is yellowed in places and there is a felt-like ball of dry grass on the surface. What can you do to keep your lawn looking fresh and attractive?
Why does my lawn look bad after winter?
A lawn should be taken care of when the first spring rays of sunshine (pardon the tautology) appear on it. This is true because after winter, the lawn needs special attention.
After winter, you may see a lawn that is dry and yellowed in places. The main reason is the possible mass appearance of bare roots. In order to figure out how to restore the lawn after winter, it is necessary to determine the reasons for the poor condition of the grass on the lawn. They can be different.
1. Fading of some, especially mullein grass.
This occurs when there is a strong transition to winter, as not all plants can gradually harden and therefore may die.
Freezing often occurs in low-snow winters, especially if the lawn is on thin shingles. Grasses freeze when there is an ice crust, especially if the lawn is on hills.
Important: To prevent plants from freezing out, you need to arrange for snow retention. The first snow should be colored so that it melts slowly in the spring. It is also necessary to adhere to the correct agricultural technique (operative, mowing, watering, feeding).
2. the grass is cut through the ear.
The problem can cause partial or complete death of perennials and leads to the formation of gaps.
The plant is depleted after snowfall. This is due to the continuation of vital biological processes in the plants as under normal natural conditions during the growing season.
Plant depletion begins after snowfall on unfrozen soil. Sugar reserves in flowers are exhausted, and water and nutrition from the soil have not arrived. This is characteristic of dense plants grown in the fall, weakly hardened plants.
Important! To prevent the formation of prophallus, you can not fertilize the grass with nitrogen fertilizer, as nitrogen causes it. It is necessary to ventilate the floor in a timely manner, especially in the lowlands, as a lot of water can accumulate there. Excess moisture is the cause of warping.
3. When smoking, knots and roots of crops are smoked.
The phenomenon of frosting can be observed when there is a loose floor under the lawn.
This occurs with frequent thawing and freezing, as the first process freezes the water and the floor lifts slightly. The ground begins to take care of the onset of subsidence, with plants often drying out of the ground. At the end (July August), the soil doesn’t have time to settle enough to seed the lawn. Following grass seeding conditions is essential to maintaining a good lawn.
Important: In order to ensure that the snow is removed at the same time in all areas, it is necessary to distribute it evenly over the lawn in winter, because after a snowstorm there may be a lot of snow damage in some areas and another – bare ground.
5 Top Reasons to Overkill Grass
Summarizing the feedback of lawn owners, knowledge and observations of experienced agronomists, it is possible to identify the main reasons for the yellowing of the lawn after the winter. What to do if the lawn after winter turns yellow and does not grow, what does it depend on?
1. Violation of the norm of seeding in the direction of growth.
Some people think that the thicker the grass, the better and more beautiful the lawn will be. Dense seeding ensures that only the root system breathes fully. This means that all the plants lack micronutrients, moisture and oxygen, which leads to a gradual wilting and yellowing of the grass.
2. Lack or excess of nitrogen, iron.
To remedy the situation, it is necessary to additionally fertilize the lawn. Urea, iron sulfate, ammonium nitrate, aluminum sulfate can be used for this. Nutrients should be given in the right amounts, but never in excess.
The mottled yellowing of the lawn can be caused by the usual “fertilising” of the little brothers of the earth: Excess nitrogen, for example.
You need to put up a fence or install an ultrasonic repeller (a few if the lawn is too big) to get the green carpet back.
3. irregular watering.
A small amount of water in the soil can cause the entire lawn to turn yellow. Such situations are most common in summer, although this option is also possible in winter with little snow. The situation is remedied by regular watering throughout the season.
4. Appearance of “red thread”.
The essence of the disease is that yellowish spots of irregular shape appear, resembling grass burned in the sun. This yellowing occurs in late autumn and is caused by a lack of nitrogen, frequent fogs and prolonged moisture. With these features, the grass goes into overwintering and cannot turn green for several months.
5. The presence of excessively compacted soil.
This occurs with regular mechanical loads. If a path is laid, then the processes of air exchange are disturbed in this place, there is a lack of oxygen, which leads to a change in the color of the grass stand.
The state of grass color is affected by the presence of construction debris under the layer of soil, accidental spills of gasoline and oil. Therefore, caution should always be exercised, especially when filling up the lawnmower and in general when working with petroleum products.
Damage to the root system can be underground pests: worms, wireworms, moths, honeybees, root aphids and others. Combating them, the implementation of the above measures – the guarantee that the lawn grass will be lushly green.
Now we know what the causes of meadow yellowing and what to do if the lawn turns yellow after the winter. Hopefully, your lawn will always be green.
5 steps to restoring your lawn
The entire job of restoring a meadow after winter can be divided into 5 steps.
1. Draining Spring Water
Draining the spring water is the first step in taking care of your lawn after the winter is over. The first step is to prevent standing water in certain areas. This is necessary to ensure that the turf dries out evenly so that the weed develops evenly throughout the growing season.
In order to avoid the formation of slowly melting drifts that lead to significant waterlogging, it is necessary to regularly break up the crust that has formed and spread the snow.
Important: To avoid the formation of additional depressions in the melted surface of the lawn, you must not walk on it to ensure a perfectly even surface.
If the drains are dirty, they must be cleaned. To allow the moisture to drain away better, shallow grooves should be made.
2. Fertilizing .
Fertilizing is most often done to increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil, as it improves the growth of foliage. It is necessary to increase the concentration of potassium and phosphorus in the soil to strengthen the root system of the plants and strengthen the structure of the sprouts.
Our companies produce versatile, ready-to-use lawn fertilizers that can be used at any time during the growing season.
The best options are fertilizers that dissolve easily in water and are used in conjunction with watering. Your benefit:
- The concentration of micronutrients in the water is easy to adjust;
- The fertilizer has time to reach the roots in a minimum period;
- high efficiency because the result is visible after just a few days.
Fertilizers in the form of powder or granules are also quite effective, but the result comes after 2-3 weeks.
3. Scrubbing
In normal weather without abnormal variations, it takes 2 weeks for the fertilizer to fully dissolve and take effect. The lawn should then be combed out (scarified).
A roller or wooden rake is best suited for this operation. Use a comb to remove all debris accumulated over the autumn and winter. If the lawn is too large, a mechanical scarifier – a hollow cylinder with many spikes – can be used.
Important: To get the best results, the lawn should be combed out in two mutually perpendicular directions.
The remains of dead leaves, dead grass and other organic debris should be placed in a compost pit. After decomposition, the plant residue can be used as an organic fertilizer.
What is the purpose of scrubbing?
First, you need to remove the straw from the lawn.
Secondly, you need to loosen the hardened crust on the surface.
Third, you need to ensure full access of oxygen to the root system.
After such an operation, you will see how the grass will rejuvenate in times. “First urgent” help to the lawn after the winter is already done: The melt water has been drained, the lawn has been fertilized, the debris needs to be removed, which has been done.
4. Aeration
Aeration work should be done immediately after combing out. This is the only way to maximize the benefits to the lawn. Aeration can prevent standing water and soil compaction. The procedure is done especially carefully in areas where there is moss.
For the work, you can use:
- garden forks. Use them to pierce the ground throughout the area, pressing completely with your foot (like a shovel);
- homemade or store-bought aerator shoes. They are made in the form of special shoe attachments. They look like a solid sole with many sharp pins (nails). To do the work, you need to attach them to your shoes and walk on the lawn. It will not be quite easy, but middle-aged and older children will be happy to do such work.
There are many other aeration tools available, but for spring work, these will do as well.
If you have a large enough area of lawn, we recommend using powerful self-propelled machines with gasoline engines or electric motors. With the help of such mechanisms you can make the ventilation deeper. Such designs can simultaneously act as rakes and aerators.
5. Removing Sproulspots.
Bald spots on the lawn after the winter is a common occurrence. Getting rid of them is one of the most important types of work to restore the grass. Depending on the size of the stain, different methods are used to remove it. What to do with bald patches on the lawn after winter?
If small bald patches appear, they should be “draped” with pieces of grass from beds or the edge of the lawn. If large patches of grass have died, similar grasses should be reseeded. The soil should be loosened and leveled before sowing. After sowing the seeds with “overlapping” on healthy areas, the arable land is covered with an even layer of peat and the soil is compacted with a roller. To prevent the spring rains from washing out the seeds, it is necessary to water the sown lawns with a light artificial rain.
Important: To get an even, moderately dense lawn, the amount of seeds during sowing should be increased by half or two times.
In wet weather, snow mould can develop on lawns after the winter. This disease is caused by the fungus Gerlachia nivalis. Mold disappears after a constant temperature of +20 degrees or higher. You can use common fungicides, which cope well with this disease. To speed up the healing process, it is necessary to comb out the areas of affected grass well. If the grass is very sparse in these areas, you need to sow the lawn with the same seeds. With the onset of warmth, the meadow will take shape.
The specialists of the company “Ecomir” are engaged in the quality restoration of lawns after the winter. The company works in Kiev and Kiev region with the population, private and state structures.
Specialization: roll and seed lawns near suburban homes, cottages, offices, industrial facilities.
If the lawn is yellow, looks dry, does not grow, bare, in some places appeared mold, the company is ready to improve its condition. We can help by phone for free consultation, when you go to the cottage – a number of practical measures. Discounts, promotions, preferential terms for regular customers make our services cheaper.
Availability of highly qualified specialists, newest equipment and knowledge of modern agro-technologies can make “Ecomir” the leader at the market of sowing and lawn laying not only in Kiev and Kiev region but also in Ukraine.
