3 Treatments that return soil to perfect condition after winter

How to break up a soil: 8 reliable soil care measures

How to improve the depleted soil on the construction site and restore fertility? The floor of a small garden plot is too intensively used, often improperly, with the use of pesticides that kill all life in it. Soil acidity is disturbed from illiterate fertilizer application through improper tillage. Without the proper application of plant amendments, the soil is also depleted. Plants here hardly grow at all and become diseased. In this article, we will tell you how to restore the structure and fertility of the soil to remove the floor.

1. Acid normalization.

Acidic floors are slow to dry and difficult to cultivate; organic tissues in an acidic floor are slow to decompose. Plants have reduced absorption of phosphorus, ammonia, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. At higher alkalinity (pH = 7.5 and above) plants lack iron and manganese.

Soils rich in humus resist acidification (lightening) better.

– How can you tell what kind of soil is in a given place?

– Horfenhaus, culinary bananas, and segezha grow on acidic soils. Chamomile, lapdaisy, field tie, quinoa and nettles grow on related to neutral soils. ______________________________

  • Lime,
  • Lime meal (contains calcium, applied 1 year before planting),
  • Dolomite flour (contains calcium, magnesium and acts milder, can be used in the year of planting).

2. Hypion

Saline soils (fertile, found everywhere) are prone to gypsumification. As a result, sodium ions in soil complexes are replaced by calcium ions.

  • Phosphogenic type preparation is used 2-3 years in a row at a rate of 30 g/m², added to the mixture with humus and embedded at a depth of 27-32 cm.
  • After applying gypsum for 1-2 years should be sown siderat (donnix, oats) and only recultivate the floor, not turning the layer (on the bayonet).

3. Restoration of the structure.

This is a longer process.

  1. Just dig over the floor, without turning the layer (do bayoneting with feeding),
  2. Siderat permanently sown.
  3. Focht, sand, sand.
  4. Separate can be once every 3 years.

4. Sideration

Su b-acid can be sown up to three times per season. Effective alternative siderat species.

  • Kreuzblütler (rape, mustard),
  • Muesli (oats, rye),
  • Legumes (vetch, peas, lupine),
  • Phacelia, buckwheat and their mixtures (both spring and winter),
  • Velvetvetvet and Calendula.

Seed or simply mow in the phase of budding and re-seed in the same location.

5. Insulating and Loosening.

You can insulate and allow heavy tone and damp soil with sand or agroplate (thermally treated perlite, an inner rock that is not moisture resistant). When applied and mulched with these materials, the soil does not tear, crust and mold do not form. This is especially effective for heat-loving crops that break down in winter (plum, cherry, guinea fowl, creeper, red currant).

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On light, dry floors (under vegetables and strawberries, where watering is limited) use agricultural vestibulite – a sterile, lightweight, moisture-resistant mica material that contains magnesium, calcium, aluminum, potassium, iron and silicon. It holds in the ground and protects the exposed elements, supplies moisture well (4-5 times its own weight) and reduces acid.

If the groundwater is high on the plot or if good warm drainage is needed, you can use extended tone (oval pellets, sold in the construction business). It is also poured on paths and flower beds.

Advantages of sawdust
  • Mulching (it is better to take old with the addition of fertilizer),
  • Drinking paths,
  • Injection into the soil (up to 30% of the volume, it is better to take the old ones),
  • Composting.

Mulching is better than wood chips. After long storage (up to 1 year) any sawdust is suitable.

6. Restoring fertility

How to properly restore soil fertility through the production of organic matter? This process is long and depends on the presence of humus in the soil.

Organic fertilizers for restoring soil fertility

The content of humus (fertile layer) increases with the systematic application of organic matter. Immediately I would caution against applying fresh organic fertilizers to the soil. As you know, 80% of manure is completely mineralized and only 20% converts to humus.

Do you make fresh organic matter?

When fresh sawdust, straw, or manure is applied, fungi, bacteria, and molds appear in the soil and absorb nutrients. As a result, plants begin to starve (the main sign of this is a pale color).

And only when the organic matter decomposes (in 1.5-3 months), the bacteria die and decompose the substances.

Therefore, only decomposed organic matter should be introduced!


Humus is the most important organic fertilizer. In the year before planting with or without fertiliser you should apply 3-4 to 6-8 kg/m² humus.

Then it is applied in small doses (3-4 kg/m²) and rarely (after 2-3 years) in garden arcs during trenching as mulch in a thin layer (2-3 cm) with mineral, contributing phosphorus and potassium.

Peat improves the physical properties of light, sandy and heavy tone floors. Peat nitrogen is available to plants only after decomposition. Therefore, it decomposes slowly, as a fertilizer it can be used only ash-rich, well-developed (30% or more) neutral lowland peat with lime content of at least 2%.

For mulch, neutral, dark, decomposed peat is more suitable (the layer should be 3-4 cm in autumn). This method is effective for strawberries, raspberries, petunias (the yield increases up to 2-2.5 times). Under the peat, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (45-60 g/m²) is applied. __________________________________

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Read more about how to use peat properly in this article _________________________________________________

Chips of coal
  • Up to 1 bucket per 1 m² on light colored floors,
  • 2 to 3 buckets per m² on hard and heavy clay,
  • Up to 1 bucket in a planting hole.
Industrial organic fertilizers

Industrial organic fertilizers consist of mineral fertilizers (poultry manure), often added composts and people. Dry mixes are applied along with mineral fertilizers. Liquid organic fertilizers – Bioton (Bujan HZ), Vermisol, various brands Florin, Giant, Biohumus – are used for irrigation. ______________________________

7. Soil removal.

When the crops of the same family are constantly growing in the same place, which accumulate in the ground, rhizomes, pests and diseases are carried out annually. Plants stop growing and begin to get sick. Strawberries, raspberries, melons (beets), flowers (peony) are especially susceptible.

It is impossible to lighten the soil with doses of mineral fertilizers and pesticides. A radical solution is a complete replacement of the floor, but this is tedious, expensive and therefore almost impossible.

Soil control uses: crop rotation and changing crops, sowing green and sanitary plants, applying humus, biological products, microbial fertilizers and humate.

Read more about how to combat floor coverings here ________________________________.

8. Pest Control.

  • You can hand-clean the soil and pick out weed roots and pest larvae when digging.
  • Traditionally, in early spring, irrigate the root and stem circles with a solution of ammonia alcohol (1-2 tablespoons of linear alcohol per 10 liters of water).

Preparations for pest control in the soil

Some newer preparations are also effective against pests in the soil.

Metarizine, W, 4/3.

Humic base liquid or powder to protect plants from bears, May cricket larvae, clickworms, blackflies, etc. The germs of the predatory fungus enter the body cavity and cause pests to die.

It is used once, especially on strawberries and potatoes against Colorado potato beetle and wireworm. After planting, water with the solution or apply to the floor when planting (50 ml/l – per 100 m²).

Nematophagin-Micro (Koltsovo, LLC “Mikofro”)

Powder based on a predatory fungus that fights floor nematodes (destroys more than 86% of the larvae and cysts of goldenrod, halid, cyst-forming nematodes) and increases the defenses of plants. Apply once per winter.

3 Treatments that return soil to perfect condition after winter

After several months of adverse winter effects, the soil requires extremely intensive care. The frost and snowfall have severely damaged its structure and reduced its ability to absorb nutrients. This means that some basic work needs to be done.

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Discover the three most important maintenance processes you can’t forget and plan your spring work on your site!

Dig over

This is an obligatory procedure not to forget if you want to grow plants successfully – by digging the soil, you will prepare it to absorb valuable minerals and nutrients, but that’s not all. They also, to a certain extent, eliminate soil pests that have a negative effect on proper plant growth.

Does any soil get tilled the same way? The answer is no! You’ve probably wondered more than once why your neighbor’s plot looks a little healthier and more fertile than yours, even though you care for it in a similar way. The secret is in the details: floor structure. Do you think about how you can characterize the floor on your site?

Heavy, dense and “sound,” it contains a lot of water and lets only a small amount of air through. When exposed to excess moisture, the floor turns into sticky dirt and when dry, it crusts and cracks, making it extremely difficult to care for. The advantage of a tinted floor is that the minerals and nutrients supplied combine in its deeper layers so that they can be freely absorbed by the plants. The disadvantage is rotting of plant roots due to insufficient oxygenation and sunlight. This type of floor initially requires an overly lumpy structure.

The complete opposite of a clay floor is a sand floor. How do you recognize them? Check how it behaves after a heavy rain. Excessive water permeability hinders proper plant development (roots don’t get moisture too quickly), so your job is to increase its absorption capacity – the ability to collect and retain optimal amounts of moisture and nutrients.

Knowing the properties of the soil is the first step to a proper grave site. It’s time to choose the right tools.

Shovel, hoe and cultivator are well-known garden helpers, but do you know what will help you work most effectively? You can successfully replace the shovel with a rotary-cultivator method. For example. The Stiga SRC 36 g can be moved effortlessly to a depth of about 30 cm, which is the best way to break down the soil structure most effectively and allows free access to air and solar heat. The smooth movement of the site requires no force, so you can work freely with the hoe. All you have to do is clear the floor with the sharp end of the tool and then grip the surface with the rake. A leveled area is less susceptible to evaporation, which means it is much slower to absorb and soak up water, so that subsequent layers of soil are moistened gradually, at a reasonable pace.

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Say (now).

Weeds are the biggest problem with spring work on the site. Even if you don’t plant them, they show up every year: in beds between plants, in flower beds and in the lawn. They disfigure the garden and interfere with proper plant development, basically limiting the flow of water, air and sunlight. As if that weren’t enough, weeds are resistant to many different diseases that fruit and vegetable seeds can’t handle. Adapting perfectly to their environment, they dynamically proliferate and spoil a carefully manicured area.

Multifunction devices pistol, Silex 95 and practical accessories. We know what you need to effectively treat your site.

How to minimize weed damage?

Try to keep weeds from taking root firmly, thickly and hard. While you have time, remove them so they can flower and produce seeds. This is the most popular method of limiting growth, which is also recommended because young shoots are relatively easy to remove. Remember that removing weeds alone is not enough. A good practice is to uproot them in accordance with the soil trench. By doing this, you will be sure to carefully remove any plants from the deeper layers of soil that could damage future crops.

When and how do I prune?

No matter how much you want to remove the unsightly rays of grass covering every loose patch of ground, check the soil disease first. The tone should be moderately moist, dry – only slightly supplied with moisture.

You will need proven tools for removing weeds: garden claws and a chopper. Working on the plot is without special protective gloves and a comfortable – often made of soft foam kneepads. This is the equipment with which you can work on a small plot, although then you will have to prepare for considerable physical strain: several hours on your knees, with a constantly crying back. Weeding the site requires regularity, and that’s a good reason to think about investing in the devices you save for the most demanding activities. One offering is the Siilex 95 multifunction device; It features a rotary tiller, ideal for gardening, but not only. A wide range of optional equipment allows you to use the machine for various, complex work in the garden – regardless of the season.

Feed (fertilizer)

After a few months of winter the place, like the human body, needs an extra dose of vitamins and minerals. Just as nutritional supplements help us, it helps the soil to properly restore the lost condition.

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How can you nourish it?

There are different options, and they are all equally good. The most common organic fertilizer is compost – made from plant waste in specially designed composters. How does it affect the soil? First, it is enriched with valuable caries and nourished with preserved ones. For example, you can make your own compost from grass clippings. To do this, simply scatter about 3 cm of freshly cut grass on an excavated and cleared area and then loosen the floor very carefully. If you have made too much fertiliser, do not throw it away! You can pour the excess into a separate container and use it again in early autumn or the following spring. Because of its high yield and longer freshness, compost is one of the cheapest ways to fertilize.

Fertilizing the floor with manure brings excellent results. The best – horse manure – actively stimulates plants for dynamic growth. Equally beneficial is the use of cattle, sheep and rabbits. What do you need to know when choosing this method of soil improvement? Of course, natural manure is the most profitable. Therefore, if you live near a village, it is worth looking for farms where cattle are raised. Otherwise, buying fertilizer is no less profitable investment. Remember that manure should not be applied immediately to the plot. Collect it in one place and cover it completely with foil. In a few months the fertilizer will be ready for use. This long wait is more than repaid by the maintenance effect you get with the manure after it is applied to the site.

What else can you use to power a site? Mules!!! Acquisition does not require financial costs – it is enough with a spatula and a bucket to go to the nearest pond and choose the necessary amount of valuable fertilizer. This works best in places that are very close to a body of water, so that its extraction can be somewhat difficult. However, you should not give up this solution – Schlick is considered one of the most valuable organic fertilizers, which nourish the soil very quickly and clearly.

Getting a plot in the right condition after winter is quite difficult. However, knowing the basic ways to fertilize increases the likelihood of repairing damage from unwanted weather conditions. Numbering, now, and soil fertilizers are stocks you can’t do without in your gardening calendar. With the right devices, such as professional equipment from Stiga, you’ll not only work faster than usual but also more enjoyably – without annoying muscle and spine pain, so you can devote more valuable time.

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